Kruje and Tirane, Albania
Early this morning the Sea Cloud began a slow entry into the largest port city of the country of Albania. Durres is the second largest city in Albania, located on the central coast about 33 km (21 miles) west of the capitol Tirane. Durres is an industrial port city, not particularly attractive but wonderfully located in close proximity to our two destinations for the day. Once breakfast was complete we boarded our buses and began a one hour journey up to the old Albanian capitol town of Kruje, which is situated in a spectacular setting beneath the country’s central limestone escarpment. Climbing up from a central plain through a pine forest we entered Kruje in our two large tour busses and watched in amazement as our drivers negotiated winding streets filled with buses and many cars! Kruje is famous in the country of Albania for two excellent museums. Once our drivers could find a suitable stopping point we disembarked and walked a short distance towards the two museums Kruje is so well known for. The Skanderbeg Museum is dedicated to Albania’s best known national hero George Kastrioti, also known as Skanderbeg. The second museum is a wonderful and very complete ethnographic museum depicting life in a wealthy household in 18th century Albania.
Rounding out our morning was a chance to spend a short time in the alleys of the medieval bazaar. Old olive oil lamps, musical instruments, olive wood bowls and implements, ethnic costumes and some of the finest Albanian filagree jewelry were mixed in with a whole myriad of kitschy souvenirs...all provided excellent shopping and fun for all!
Back on board our buses we made our way back down to the flat plains and headed to the modern capitol of Albania, Tirane. A strong contrast to our morning visit, this was a large bustling city, its inner center revolved around Skanderbeg Square with the Communist Head quarters, the Et’hem Bey Mosque, the central clock tower and a wildly strange array of construction, ever present. After a short drive through the center we made our way down a narrow street to the Sarajet restaurant. As we walked towards the front door we could hear the sound of folk music and greeting our group as we entered were members of the Eagle Folk music and dance troupe. After enjoying a sampling of typical Albanian specialties as our lunch, we were entertained by this incredible dance troupe, giving another great opportunity for photography and even a little dancing!
After lunch, we took a brief walk out into Skanderbeg Square and made the customary circle around, finishing under the enormous, old Socialist mural on the front of the National Museum.
Returning to the Sea Cloud in the late afternoon was a wonderful relief from a very busy day. Our National Geographic Expert, Grace Fielder, gave a presentation shortly after our return on Languages of the Balkans...taking us all back to many conversations during the day about the ethnic diversity of the entire Balkan peninsula. Earlier in the day, many had been aware of a storm brewing out in the Adriatic sea...as the Sea Cloud began her passage north and away from the Albanian port of Durres, we began to feel the full force of Poseidon as the seas built and the sky was filled with flashing lighting and the sound of thunder rang out over the sea swells and the Sea Cloud! Our ship sailed magnificently, as was expected... after all, we were heading into the first serious early fall storm on the Queen of Tall Ships. We were untouched by the wild storm outside; we enjoyed good conversation, laughter, yet another fine evening meal riding in the comfort of one of the world’s most beautifully designed square rigged tall ships.
