Butrint, Albania and Sailing the Corfu Channel
The UNESCO World Heritage site of Butrint lies at the southern end of a narrow six-mile-long rocky ridge known as the Ksamil Peninsula. The Vivari Channel, which connects the brackish Lake Butrint to the Adriatic, wraps around the southern wall of the ancient city. According to Greek mythology, the Trojans founded Butrint after Agamemnon destroyed their city. The hilltop site has been occupied since the start of the Iron Age but did not rise to prominence until the 4th century BC, when the city walls and temple dedicated to Asclepius were built. The city grew rapidly after the arrival of the Romans in the 2nd century BC due to its strategic location, which provided shelter to Imperial naval and merchant fleets.
A number of Christian basilicas were built in the city and in the surrounding countryside in the early 4th century AD, and the magnificent late 6th-century baptistery, with its double ring of eight columns and mosaic pavement, is one of the most elaborate in the Mediterranean region. Control of the straits, the rich fisheries and access to the fertile plains in the valley north of Butrint, ensured the area’s importance through to the 18th century.
After entering the archaeological park through the old Venetian south gate, we strolled beneath a canopy of oak, bay laurel, maple and redbud trees towards the oldest part of the site, the shrine of Asclepius and the Greek theater. Earthquakes and rising water levels have flooded the ancient foundations in this part of the city, thus providing a perfect habitat for small turtles. As various archaeological missions have each focused on different historical aspects of Butrint over the past 60 years, in our two-hour visit we were able to explore 3000 years of architectural and cultural history.
Our route around the lower perimeter of the site afforded us a number of different panoramic views of the shimmering lake with its mountain backdrop and local fishermen setting their nets and collecting baskets of mussels. On the drive back to ship, we wound our way up to Lekuris Castle, perched above the town of Sarande, for refreshments. Some guests sampled local wine and beer while listening to the haunting flute melodies of a local folk musician. Others followed naturalist Sharon Grainger around to photograph sea squill and fall-flowering yellow crocus, which were poking their heads out of the wheat-colored grass and craggy limestone boulders at the base of the fortress.
After lunch, Sea Cloud maneuvered into the center of the Corfu Channel in order to take advantage of southwest, no, north winds! Having braced the yards to the starboard, the crew went aloft to unfurl the sails, only to descend and re-brace the yards square, before raising the sails. Line handling continued during Grace Fielder’s talk on the “Myth of Maps,” which was followed by Amaretto ice coffees served on the promenade deck. Our afternoon under sail provided the perfect lead-in to Tom O’Brien’s talk on the history of the ship and our evening champagne reception and tour of some of the original cabins.
