Chichagof Island

This morning we anchored in a cozy cove on the west side of Chichagof Island called Basket Bay. Concealed at the head of the bay is a beautiful, hidden grotto. From the anchored ship, there was no hint of the magical spot. After breakfast we explored the cave via Zodiac. We timed it very carefully so that we entered it within minutes of high tide; at any other time it is inaccessible even by small craft.

As we approached it we rounded a sharp turn where steep rock walls were covered by trees and wildflowers. Ahead, the arching rock roof of the cave was topped by mature spruce and hemlock trees; from above, this hiding spot would be perfectly camouflaged. In the water below, silhouettes of six-inch long Dolly Varden swam among the rocks. As we entered the grotto, at times we had to duck our heads beneath the roof. Ahead, the stream continued inland in bright, beautiful daylight. Currant plants hung low from the grotto roof, and nearly brushed our heads as we left the rocky hideaway. Fifty yards upstream the water rushed out of a narrow, shallow, rocky slot. We could go no further. We turned off the outboards and just listened to the gurgling water, admired the wildflowers growing on the rock walls, and watched territorial rufous hummingbirds visiting bright red columbine flowers. The spot was pure magic, and each one of us felt as though we had just shared in a Southeast Alaska secret.