Misty Fjords, Alaska

The morning dawned calm and sunny, and before breakfast we passed New Eddystone Rock, which marks the entrance to Misty Fjords National Monument where we planned to spend our day. This volcanic plug rises 230 feet and was named by Captain George Vancouver for its resemblance to the lighthouse on Eddystone Rock in the English Channel.

Just as breakfast finished someone spotted some killer whales and the Captain turned the ship around so we could get a better look. There were perhaps 20 individuals scattered in a wide arc at the mouth of Rudyerd Bay. We saw several large males and there were several females with very small calves swimming with them. The calves seemed playful as we watched them roll over and spyhop repeatedly. Larry Hobbs, our marine mammal specialist, put a hydrophone in the water and we heard some of the incredible vocalizations that the whales use for communication. Judging by the shape of the dorsal fins and the vocalizations, Larry thought that this group was a resident pod. The big excitement came when one of the males leapt clear out of the water, not just once but three times! We followed the pod for an hour fascinated by their different behaviors.

After the orcas we turned our attention to Rudyerd Bay, which was bathed in blue sky and sunlight. As we cruised through punchbowl cove gazing at the towering, sheer cliffs we could see why the area is called “Yosemite of the North.” We reached the end of the fjord and Captain Martin dropped the anchor near the mouth of a river. After lunch we set out to explore the area by Zodiac and kayak. The day turned out to be amazingly warm as the temperature was in the 70s, and it was hard to imagine that we were in Southeast Alaska. Zodiac-ers and kayakers alike were entranced by the numerous waterfalls spilling into the bay as the cool spray coming off them felt refreshing. There was a very high tide in the afternoon which allowed us to paddle right up to the grassy banks of the river that were full of beautiful wildflowers. Before we left the anchorage, Sharon Grainger gave a presentation on native culture and art of the Pacific Northwest-something that we will see more of over the coming days. The grand finale of the day came when the Captain nosed the Sea Lion right up to a waterfall tumbling down a vertical cliff and several guests had a quick icy shower.