Petersburg and LeConte Bay

The fishing community of Petersburg was already bustling with activity as the Sea Lion sidled up to the dock just before breakfast. Bulky nets lay piled on the decks of purse seining boats that busily motored in and out of the crowded harbor. The Sons of Norway Hall came into view, reflecting the Scandinavian heritage of this town of about 3200 people.

Long before Peter Buschmann and fellow Norwegians settled this area, Tlingit Indians fished these rich waters. An exceptionally low tide allowed us to visit a site to see remnants of traps designed to capture fish on a falling tide. Some of these are believed to be around 2000 years old. Rocks were arranged in heart shapes to entrap fish with the ebbing tide. A local archaeologist showed us remnants of hemlock boughs that were placed to hold the captured fish. He also pointed out ancient petroglyphs carved into the rock, heart-shaped faces whose meaning has been lost through the ages.

Below the traps stretched rocks encrusted with barnacles and mussels, and extensive habitat for other intertidal creatures. What a perfect opportunity to discover sea urchins, anemones, spider crabs, and sea stars!

Our afternoon centered around LeConte Bay, filled with icebergs discharged from LeConte Glacier, the southernmost tidewater glacier in the northern hemisphere. The Zodiacs set forth into the maze of ice-blue sculptures for a water-level view. We wove our way up the steep-walled fiord for fantastic views of waterfalls and the glacier itself. Back on the ship, wine-tasting and a feast of fresh Dungeness crab from Petersburg finished off the day.