Loreto and Isla del Carmen

The Gulf of California is filled with surprises, history, and magical places. Our first thrill of the day was a humpback whale spouting in the distance. Initially it teased us with infrequent blows and only quick glimpses of its back, but patience paid off. We watched flipper flops, lob-tails, tail throws, and even full body breaches by this playful young humpback. What a spectacular start to the morning!

Our next adventure took us into the town of Loreto, where the first of the missions was built in 1697. This Mother of Missions has seen centuries of change, starting with the days of the Jesuits and Franciscans when Loreto was the capital of Baja California. Hurricanes and earthquakes damaged the structure which was later restored to its present state. Today this town is frequented by fishermen and some tourists, but it still remains a tranquil spot backed by the abrupt escarpment of the Sierra de la Giganta mountain range. Near the mission arching fig trees stretch over a quiet brick and cobble street lined with tiny shops. Mango trees and brilliant bouganvillias grace rock walls and fences. The real highlight for many of us, however, was the local ice cream shop. Our expedition leader arranged for cones to be "on the house," so we picked and licked our favorite flavors before returning to the Sea Lion for lunch.

Limestone blocks used to build the mission came from nearby Isla del Carmen, our afternoon destination. Light-colored cliffs of the marine deposits from which these were cut intersect with rich red volcanics along the east side of the island. Hikers took off into a narrow canyon to explore the desert. The white bark of palo blanco trees was stunning against the red volcanic breccia. They climbed as high as they could in the allotted time for a great view of much of the island. Another landing provided a sandy beach for all sorts of activities. As you can see in the photo, the shore is flanked by pale fossil-bearing rocks sculpted over eons of time. Everyone there could pursue his or her own afternoon dream. Some swam, while others snorkeled, tossed a silver football, looked for shells, or created a mosaic of colored stones. Once again, Baja California unfolded her treasures and we embraced them.