Los Islotes; Isla San Francisco
As the Sea Lion approached Los Islotes this morning under sterling skies, the resident marine mammals vociferously greeted their namesake. Splayed in odd postures of repose upon the sienna rocks, the sea lions sleepily barked a welcome. Above in the white-frosted rock clefts, blue footed boobies were more interested in each other than in us, hopefully displaying their cobalt feet in an attempt to woo a mate. Their courtship whistles carried over the gentle breeze as we stared upwards at soaring frigatebirds. Around the Zodiacs, the sea lions porpoised, beckoning us closer. One sea lion delighted in buggering a Pacific loon that paddled by, diving around the bird to pop up right in front of its beak before jetting under the water and appearing just behind its tail feathers. We finally decided to alleviate the loon’s frustration by joining the playful pup. Returning to the ship, we donned wetsuits for a closer look at the sea lions – on their turf. Our arrival was none too soon for the sea lions, who swirled around us, mouthing all new substances they could: anchor, lines, fins, wetsuits, and masks. It was hard to know where to look as a posse of them swirled around us. Tearing our gaze from the melee of brown fur, we were lost in a swirl of movement as hundreds of flatiron herring wheeled in large schools. Huge bicolor and bluechin parrotfish grazed sedately on coral, while fanged blennies kept sentinel watch on the crest of boulders, large herds of yellowtail surgeonfish moved slowly through algal patches that were meticulously manicured and vigorously defended by Cortez damselfish, and Mexican hogfish males glided after females. Giant damselfish, sporting nuptial coloration, defended their territories from all comers, including sea stars that happened to cross the boundary. Picking up the hapless echinoderm in their strong jaws, the giant damsels would move the intruder to a distant location (see picture).
Following lunch we dropped anchor at Isla San Francisco, eager to explore the salt flats, sandy beaches, tidepools and breathtaking overlooks of this sickle-shaped island. Our first opportunity to kayak was today. We stretched our shoulder muscles as we cut through the shallows, staring up at the piled sticks of an osprey nest and the galloping cacti cascading down the cliffs. Walking across the salt pan, we spied land hermit crabs scuttling over the dunes and the piled debris indicative of a packrat nest. Ending up on the beach, we were treated to the wealth of the intertidal marine invertebrates of this region: humongous brittle stars rowed their way across our palms, slate pencil urchins waved their spines, knobby sea cucumbers shot water when handled, and elegant nudibranchs (sea slugs) swished their “skirts” (the Mexican dancer) or radiated brilliant orange (the apricot slug) as they ambled along. Who knew so many animals lurked beneath the rocks in the shallows?
As the Sea Lion approached Los Islotes this morning under sterling skies, the resident marine mammals vociferously greeted their namesake. Splayed in odd postures of repose upon the sienna rocks, the sea lions sleepily barked a welcome. Above in the white-frosted rock clefts, blue footed boobies were more interested in each other than in us, hopefully displaying their cobalt feet in an attempt to woo a mate. Their courtship whistles carried over the gentle breeze as we stared upwards at soaring frigatebirds. Around the Zodiacs, the sea lions porpoised, beckoning us closer. One sea lion delighted in buggering a Pacific loon that paddled by, diving around the bird to pop up right in front of its beak before jetting under the water and appearing just behind its tail feathers. We finally decided to alleviate the loon’s frustration by joining the playful pup. Returning to the ship, we donned wetsuits for a closer look at the sea lions – on their turf. Our arrival was none too soon for the sea lions, who swirled around us, mouthing all new substances they could: anchor, lines, fins, wetsuits, and masks. It was hard to know where to look as a posse of them swirled around us. Tearing our gaze from the melee of brown fur, we were lost in a swirl of movement as hundreds of flatiron herring wheeled in large schools. Huge bicolor and bluechin parrotfish grazed sedately on coral, while fanged blennies kept sentinel watch on the crest of boulders, large herds of yellowtail surgeonfish moved slowly through algal patches that were meticulously manicured and vigorously defended by Cortez damselfish, and Mexican hogfish males glided after females. Giant damselfish, sporting nuptial coloration, defended their territories from all comers, including sea stars that happened to cross the boundary. Picking up the hapless echinoderm in their strong jaws, the giant damsels would move the intruder to a distant location (see picture).
Following lunch we dropped anchor at Isla San Francisco, eager to explore the salt flats, sandy beaches, tidepools and breathtaking overlooks of this sickle-shaped island. Our first opportunity to kayak was today. We stretched our shoulder muscles as we cut through the shallows, staring up at the piled sticks of an osprey nest and the galloping cacti cascading down the cliffs. Walking across the salt pan, we spied land hermit crabs scuttling over the dunes and the piled debris indicative of a packrat nest. Ending up on the beach, we were treated to the wealth of the intertidal marine invertebrates of this region: humongous brittle stars rowed their way across our palms, slate pencil urchins waved their spines, knobby sea cucumbers shot water when handled, and elegant nudibranchs (sea slugs) swished their “skirts” (the Mexican dancer) or radiated brilliant orange (the apricot slug) as they ambled along. Who knew so many animals lurked beneath the rocks in the shallows?
