Gorda Banks and Cabo San Lucas

Through a full moon night we crossed into the tropics, riding out of the Sea of Cortez along the bottom edge of the Californias. A liquid orange sun reluctantly let go the horizon illuminating a scene of marine behemoths before us. Pairs of Mexican humpbacks steamed by, threw their bodies around, rolled their lengths to skypoint their flukes, and chased after each other, engaged in reproductive social dynamics known mostly to them.

Male humpbacks are observed competing for the temporary right to accompany females. We watched a battle-scarred veteran arrive and immediately displace one female’s “escort.” “Scarguy,” as we called him, then defended his new position against four incoming wannabes. Sorting of mate selection in humpbacks may simply be a case of strength and determination.

Meanwhile, bold bottlenose dolphins dashed before the bows of some of these whales, as other humpbacks erupted out of the ocean and groups of mobulid rays in the background leaped clear of the surface in social callisthenics of their own making.

Approaching one whale busy swatting the water’s surface with its broad flukes, we made the startling realization that this humpback was caught up in lines and netting. Evidently it was trying to come clear of a gillnet by repeatedly slapping its tail. We watched from a distance to not disturb the distressed animal and reported the incident to PROFEPA, Mexico’s agency for environmental protection and enforcement. In places like New England, where whales too frequently catch fishing gear, daring disentanglement teams stand ready. Long distance voyagers like humpbacks unfortunately need to successfully navigate an ocean of fishing gear, moorings, vessels and other manmade obstacles.

We found further human fabrications on approach to the harbor at Cabo San Lucas. As if out of some cartoon, there were jet skis, parasails, glassbottom boats, kayaks, diveboats and every other ocean-going contrivance out in full force off Land’s End as we docked for an afternoon pitstop at this popular watering hole. After birdwatching and snorkelling excursions beyond the bustle, we let go the lines for open ocean. Frigatebirds filled the skies and sea lion barks our ears as we ventured from the tip of lower California out into the Pacific. The Sea Lion set sail on pacific seas for the protected nursery lagoons of the California gray whale, what will become the fifth great whale species encountered on this 'Among the Great Whales' voyage.