Cabo San Lucas and Gorda Banks

We crossed the Tropic of Cancer during the night and as the day dawned, a large group of common dolphins greeted us and rode the Sea Lion's bow as we rounded the southern tip of the Baja California Peninsula and entered the Sea of Cortez. We were dazed by the morning activity in the bustling tourist port of Cabo San Lucas, which was just a small fishing village not so long ago. Soon after docking, we chose to engage in one or two of the morning's activities offered here. Many people happily snorkeled in the warm(ish) tropical water off Playa Chilenos, while others more interested in birding joined Lee on a beautiful desert trail overlooking the Gulf. Two of the targeted endemic species were spotted along with many others. Some truly hardy travelers braved the crowds and traffic of the busy town and perused some of the more artistic shops under the direction of Adrian. It was back at the dock that the colorful green heron was found, trying to remain undetected in its busy surroundings as it silently stalked for food.

Shortly after departure, the Sea Lion maneuvered near the granite formations called Friar's Rocks at Land's End - those picturesque arches that are the signature of the south cape. We were soon underway, as possible adventures with cetaceans drew us north toward Gorda Banks - a productive seamount where marine life is often observed. Whale watchers were quickly rewarded with views of humpback spouts, pectoral fins, and flukes. As our afternoon progressed, we watched several of these large yet graceful animals in their slow-motion water ballet. At one point we stopped and decided to try the hydrophone (an underwater microphone), as humpback whales are known for the strange and haunting songs sung by male animals on their winter breeding grounds. The result was astounding! Clear, loud tones echoed over the decks, out of the cabins and around the ship. We were amazed, and some were moved to tears. All of our hearts were touched by the feeling of connection to this plaintive and seemingly mournful singer.

Interrupting Sue's plant adaptations lecture, the whales brought us back out on the decks with a spectacular breach… and then another! We stayed outside, captivated by the orange and plum-colored sunset over the mountains of the Baja Peninsula, until darkness, recap and dinner drew us back inside.