Puerto Refugio, Isla Angel de la Guarda

We were awoken once again by the now-familiar call over the PA system, announcing not breakfast, but the first whale sighting of the day. Fin whales were calmly passing just ahead of our little ship as we neared Puerto Refugio. This aptly named natural harbour at the northern tip of Isla Angel de la Guarda is entered through a dramatic narrow channel, and we gathered on the bow to watch as we slipped between the red volcanic cliffs. Passing some rocky islets we were able to observe ospreys on their nests, and even spot the chicks.

Once at anchor in the bay, our nimble Zodiacs soon had us ashore, and we split into several groups, some exploring the desert landscape, while others chose to tour the bay by Zodiac. Scrambling up a rocky slope, one party found an overlook from which the whole bay could be seen. The photographers made the most of the opportunity to capture this panorama while others chose to simply enjoy the vista, or watch pelicans coming and going from their nests in the trees below.

The afternoon was devoted to exploring Puerto Refugio by water, snorkeling a rocky reef off Isla Granito, one of the islands protecting the inner bay, and another California sea lion haul-out. Those in the water were once again enthralled by face-to-face encounters with curious sea lions that were clearly enjoying the novelty of human company.

Continuing our maritime adventures, we spent the latter part of the afternoon using the Sea Lion’s fleet of kayaks and Zodiacs to navigate the hidden bays and coves of the harbour, as well as pay a visit to the sea lion rookery. Cruising along their haul out beach, sea lions proposed alongside the Zodiacs - their delighted barks echoing off the cliffs. Kayaks paddling the shallow lagoons were at the perfect level to watch oystercatchers and yellow-footed gulls enjoying the late afternoon calm, taking a break from nest building on the rocky islets to bathe in the glassy waters along the shoreline.

As the sun sank in the western sky, we boarded Zodiacs once again for the beach, where dinner was served around a large fire pit. As darkness enclosed our beach-barbeque and the tiki-torches were lit, we drew closer to the fire to toast marshmallows on sticks and make our own dessert of s’mores. A guitar appeared from somewhere, and Bob Bateman, our artist-in-residence played as songs were sung around the fire.

Our Zodiac ride under a canopy of stars and bioluminesance sparkling in our wake was the perfect way to end this magical day.