Ensenada Grande, Espiritu Santo

Today was spent exploring the gorgeous cove of Ensenada Grande on the island complex of Espiritu Santo. We went ashore early after breakfast for a variety of walks. Some took the challenge of a vigorous walk and went up a canyon to the top. They were rewarded with a fantastic view, lush vegetation, and an overlook of a pond ¯ a very rare sight here in the desert. Others joined me for a bird/mammal walk, and we were treated to some great sightings. A verdin was spotted visiting its nest in a spiky palo adon bush, while many Costa’s hummingbirds visited the abundant flowers. Canyon wrens serenaded us with their spiraling song, and we even spotted a few singing wrens high up on the cliff. A pair of black-headed grosbeaks feeding on some seeds was stunning with their rusty orange plumage. To finish off our walk, we spotted a group of antelope ground-squirrels. These little mammals are endemic to Espiritu Santo, and thus can be found no where else. They were feasting on the fresh shoots of the vines that are carpeting the desert floor after this fall’s heavy rains.

In the afternoon, the Sea Lion repositioned to the next arm of Ensenada Grande, and we set off to explore the bay by snorkeling. We anchored the snorkel boat above some large boulders that had some nice coral growth and were surrounded by a huge school of Mexican goatfish. Most of the goatfish appeared to be hanging around and waiting for a clean by some female Mexican hogfish. The goatfish positioned themselves with their heads down, and extended their barbels out, thus signaling the hogfish they were ready. The hogfish would then dart in and make a meal out of the parasites that were bothering the goatfish, with both species benefiting. Nearby, the sand was filled with garden eels, dancing in the current as they picked plankton out of the water. Of course the abundant king angels are always a favorite with their blue bodies and yellow tails.

To finish our day, we had a barbecue on the beach. The hotel department provided the feast and Mother Nature provided the fireworks, with a stunning sunset over the mountains of the peninsula of Baja California while enjoying ribs and s’mores over the campfire.