Friday Harbor, San Juan Island/Johns Island – Washington State

The day dawned clear as we headed south in Haro Strait, along the west side of San Juan Island, with pastel hues of pink, salmon and rose in the sunrise. In the distance we could make out the highest (14,410’) of the Cascade peaks – Mount Rainier. A little later Mount Baker (10,778’) came into view. Many small fishing boats were out early trying their luck on Salmon Bank. We rounded Cattle Point and the Sea Lion treaded water against the swirling currents while we watched Steller sea lions, harbor seals, cormorants, gulls, and rhinoceros auklets waiting for an opportunity to take advantage of productive upwellings in this area.

We pulled into Friday Harbor, on the east side of San Juan Island, in order to clear customs and officially enter into the U.S.A. This gave us a chance to stroll through the streets and shops and visit the Whale Museum. But what caught our attention and our hearts the most was a half-blind harbor seal named Popeye (although a female) that posed for cameras right along the dock.

The afternoon was full of magic. We enjoyed more sunshine as the Sea Lion proceeded to the north past scenic islands of Douglas fir, Garry oak and madrone trees. Two adult bald eagles were spotted by keen observers. Passing Spieden Island we could see some exotic introduced game animals (sheep, goats and deer) that have been left to their own devices and wander the island grazing at their leisure.

We had obtained special permission to visit Johns Island, where there is a Big House built in the traditional Kwakwaka’wakw style. It was the dream and design of the well-known artist Bill Holm, realized in 2005, with the official opening and naming of the house – Nawalagwatsi, “Container of Magic” (Magic House). On the housefront is painted the Sisiutl – a mythological three-headed sea serpent, said to bring wealth, and power in war. Inside, the carved housepost figures include Raven, Killer Whale, and mythological creatures such as Huxhukw, Hamatsa, Bookwus (Wild Man of the Woods) and Dzoonakwa (Wild Woman of the Woods). It was unquestionably a powerful and magical place and an honor to visit and experience it.

The magic continued when we resumed cruising to the south and came upon a large group of killer whales. By examining the patterns of the saddle patch behind the dorsal fins, we believe we were observing L-pod, the largest of the three pods that make up the Southern Resident Community, which collectively contains 90 whales at this time. There was a young member that delighted us with playful antics such as breaches and tail-lobs. Spy-hopping was exhibited by several of these beautiful animals.

Replete with the day’s events, we look forward to more adventure and discovery tomorrow.