The maps call it "Hells Canyon" on the Snake River, apparently for the blistering heat of summer, the black varnish worn by the rocks at river's edge or the rugged canyon terrain found just feet above the water. Today, however, it was heavenly. Warm sun and the gentle perfume of springtime floated down the canyon as we enjoyed lunch on a sandy beach. There were blanket flowers on the rocky beaches, Oregon sunshine on the cliff walls and a variety of berry bushes in the draws.

Most abundant though was this plant -- syringa, Lewis' mock-orange, Philadelphus lewisii. A member of the hydrangea family, it covers the steep river banks and is full of white blooms scented like orange blossoms. As the Corps of Discovery made their way back to St. Louis in the spring and summer of 1806 these same shrubs were in bloom. On May 6 and July 4, 1806, Meriwether Lewis made journal entries that introduced this plant to western botanists. Although their expedition was one of scientific inquiry, I like to imagine those men, weary from over two years of travel, enjoying a sunny afternoon on the river with the sweet smell of syringa in the air.