San Javier, Loreto and Carmen Island

One of the trademarks of our expeditions is that we are flexible, enabling us to change an itinerary to take advantage of a new and unique opportunity. Last night we decided to change our plans and to explore today the beautiful Mission of San Javier, just two hours away from the town of Loreto.

We disembarked in Loreto early in the morning and made our way up to the mission. We followed a dirt road into the rugged body of La Giganta Mountain Range, stopping midway to explore Las Cuevas Pintadas (the painted caves), where we observed some wall paintings and enjoyed a beautiful oasis fed by a slow flowing and refreshing stream. We encountered fan palms (see photo), the mesquite known as cat’s claw (used in popular medicine) and some red spotted toads, relicts of more humid environments. Later we arrived at the formerly named Mission of San Francisco Xavier Viaundo. This church is one of the best preserved Colonial buildings in the entire Baja California peninsula. It was the result of the colonizing efforts made by the Jesuit missionaries commanded by Francisco Eusebio Kino, who explored the peninsula and the Gulf of California between 1683 and 1685. San Javier, as it is known today, was founded by another Jesuit (Father Piccolo) in 1699, but it was not until 1744 that this church was begun. It was finished in 1759.

Some steps away from the building, there were three-hundred-years-old olive trees planted by the Jesuits. Orioles, flycatchers, cardinals and other birds were looking for shade under the olive’s impressive foliage. On our way back to Loreto and the Sea Voyager, we encountered the very interesting breed of cattle known as Chinampo, whose ancestors were brought by the missionaries. After centuries of roaming free under the worst environmental conditions, these animals became the first and only Mexican breed of cattle. The barrel-shaped body, the reddish coloration, the black markings in the face and legs, and the horns just like those of the Texas Longhorn, are the distinctive features of these fascinating animals that were molded by the unique and varied conditions of Mexico.

After lunch the Sea Voyager took us to Puerto Ballandra, a beautiful location in the northwestern side of Carmen Island. Swimming, snorkeling and kayaking in the clear waters were our main pursuits.