City of Leon, Nicaragua

The conquistador of Nicaragua, Francisco Hernandez de Cordoba, founded the city of Leon in 1524. That same year, he founded another city in this same province which he named Granada. Leon was appointed provincial capital by King Phillip II of Spain. However, due to its geographical location, Granada enjoyed the advantage of being an inland port. Located on the shores of Lake Nicaragua, Granada had the privilege of being the only port in Central America with access to Caribbean Sea since Lake Nicaragua exited into the Ocean through the San Juan River. Thus while Leon was the legitimate political center of Nicaragua, Granada was the commercial leader in Central America. In time the Spanish elites of both cities entered into a rivalry which led to numerous armed conflicts. Nicaraguan history has never fully recovered from the wars between the two cities. Furthermore, Granada became the stronghold of the Conservative Party and Leon of the Liberals. Since Nicaraguan 19th century Liberals were strongly committed to education, Leon also became the intellectual and artistic capital of Nicaragua.

This morning we drove to the city of Leon, home of the second oldest University of Central America and the largest cathedral in the region. We were allowed to climb up the roof of the cathedral from where we were able to enjoy a magnificent view of the city. Then we stopped at a local café where the “Gigantonas” (gigantic female puppets) performed their centuries old dances. Refreshing cacao in milk was a pleasant way of quenching our thirst. Then on a walk through the city, we found half a dozen colonial churches. Made us wonder how much time the freethinkers of Leon must have spent attending mass. In the marketplace we walk amidst meat hanging from hooks, pigskins boiling in their natural juices in clay pots called “comales.” The smell of local tropical fruits and new world spices composed a dissonant symphony of smells and images that assaulted all our senses.

We recovered from the market experience at “El Convento” Hotel’s Restaurant. This hotel is located in a 19th century Convent. We had lunch by the central courtyard and proceeded to our last experience of the day: a visit to the Ortiz Gurdian art gallery, the largest Latin American art collection in Central America. Back on the ship we departed from Corinto Port and made a short stop at sea to get our first swim from the ships stern in the waters of the Pacific Ocean. Thus concluded our visit to the cradle of Nicaragua’s greates poets, musicians, artists and thinkers. Tomorrow will be Granada’s chance to impress us.