Granada and Isletas, Nicaragua

Up until 1856 Granada was the most splendid city in Central America. Even though it was far away from the ocean it was the most active port in the region. Located on the shore of Lake Nicaragua, Granada had access to the Caribbean Sea through the San Juan River. Thus it was relatively safe from piratical incursions and yet it rivaled Panama City in its commercial activity. The city’s splendor came to an abrupt end when it was burnt to the ground by the American adventurer William Walker in 1856. The adobe houses with tile roofs give the impression of a colonial city, however all these buildings date to the second half of the 19th century. In recent years the inhabitants of Granada have dedicated themselves to rescuing the architectural jewels and what a great job they’ve done. Today Granada is immaculate and colorful. What better way to erase Walker’s infamous legacy? Off the shores of the city lie some 360 small islands which Nicaraguans refer to as “las isletas.” These islands have been sold to various owners who are now developing them into weekend houses.

This morning we drove from San Juan del Sur to Granada. There we visited the Church of San Francisco and its museum of Nicaraguan folk paintings and pre-Columbian pottery and statuary. Afterwards we had some time to explore the city on foot. After about an hour we met at the park where we boarded some horse carriages which took us around the city, along the waterfront, ending at a small pier, where we boarded boats that took us out into the lake and finally to one of the islets. Lunch was a barbeque and served in the patio of the Estrada family’s home islet. Some of us jumped into the swimming pool before exploring the isletas to look for birds and the whatever else showed up, including the various structures, houses and otherwise, found on the islets.

Back in San Juan we bid farewell to our Nicaraguan hosts; Grace, Francisco and Roberto made us feel so welcomed in their country. A magical light covered the village of San Juan del Sur as we sailed off for Costa Rica.