Aposentillo and Leon, Nicaragua
In wonderful Lindblad tradition, today we explored new territory – the mangrove estuary of Aposentillo by Zodiac, foot, kayak and “kayuco,” the local form of dugout canoe.
Located north of Corinto, the main port on the Pacific for Nicaragua, we based activities out of the new “Marina Puesto Del Sol,” or “Sunset Marina.” With a backdrop of the smoking volcano of San Cristobal, early morning found quite a few us up and about at daybreak after a full night’s rest in this calm mooring. Some went walking into the nearby forest, binoculars and spotting scopes at the ready, while others went by Zodiac deep into the mangroves. I personally went by Zodiac, and if it wasn’t for the excellent sense of direction of our driver Henry, I could well imagine getting lost in the seemingly endless waterways. The morning temperature was just about perfect, and various herons were seen, and on our way back, Henry spotted a “crab-eating raccoon” sitting in the notch of a tree. It seemed some early morning swimming among the mangroves dampened the raccoon’s back. A squadron of spotted eagle rays silently made their way in the clear waters of the lagoon.
After breakfast and the abandon ship drill, we set out for options far and wide. The ship’s kayaks were ready and exploration was to be had by all. Some headed to the outer beach for swimming and beach combing. The special treat was the local “kayucos” that appeared next to the ship, paddled by the local peoples of the area who call themselves “concheros” or “clam-diggers,” after their main occupation. Eight kayucos were easily filled with our intrepid guests, one, two or three in each, according to kayuco size and paddling power. For the next hour, they went on a tour of the estuary, which included a landing on the island across the way. Relocated from this island after the tsunami of 1992 (which wiped out their homes), these people now lived nearby but on the “mainland,” and made their living from fishing, clamming and harvesting the fruits and vegetables still growing on the island. Our clam-digger hosts/paddlers (men, women and children) explained their lifestyle and genealogies for their passengers, showed the tracks of crabs in the sand emerging with the lowering tide, and in this way crossed the bridge of immense cultural differences and opened eyes. All morning the children were about in the area, swimming, popping up around the kayaks which came near to the beach, and both children and ourselves became involved in exchanging thoughts and questions, whether by translation, mime, exchange of gifts, laughter or smiles.
The afternoon was spent in the city of Leon, the intellectual capital of Nicaragua, where during Sunday mass we slipped into the cathedral to visit the tomb of Ruben Darío, perhaps the most famous literary giant of the country, born and buried in Leon. Climbing narrow stairways, we were able to scan the charming city of churches and lines of active volcanoes from the cathedral rooftop.
Returning after sunset to the Sea Voyager, which had come to Corinto to collect us, we set sail south on the gentle swells of the Pacific for more adventures yet to come.
In wonderful Lindblad tradition, today we explored new territory – the mangrove estuary of Aposentillo by Zodiac, foot, kayak and “kayuco,” the local form of dugout canoe.
Located north of Corinto, the main port on the Pacific for Nicaragua, we based activities out of the new “Marina Puesto Del Sol,” or “Sunset Marina.” With a backdrop of the smoking volcano of San Cristobal, early morning found quite a few us up and about at daybreak after a full night’s rest in this calm mooring. Some went walking into the nearby forest, binoculars and spotting scopes at the ready, while others went by Zodiac deep into the mangroves. I personally went by Zodiac, and if it wasn’t for the excellent sense of direction of our driver Henry, I could well imagine getting lost in the seemingly endless waterways. The morning temperature was just about perfect, and various herons were seen, and on our way back, Henry spotted a “crab-eating raccoon” sitting in the notch of a tree. It seemed some early morning swimming among the mangroves dampened the raccoon’s back. A squadron of spotted eagle rays silently made their way in the clear waters of the lagoon.
After breakfast and the abandon ship drill, we set out for options far and wide. The ship’s kayaks were ready and exploration was to be had by all. Some headed to the outer beach for swimming and beach combing. The special treat was the local “kayucos” that appeared next to the ship, paddled by the local peoples of the area who call themselves “concheros” or “clam-diggers,” after their main occupation. Eight kayucos were easily filled with our intrepid guests, one, two or three in each, according to kayuco size and paddling power. For the next hour, they went on a tour of the estuary, which included a landing on the island across the way. Relocated from this island after the tsunami of 1992 (which wiped out their homes), these people now lived nearby but on the “mainland,” and made their living from fishing, clamming and harvesting the fruits and vegetables still growing on the island. Our clam-digger hosts/paddlers (men, women and children) explained their lifestyle and genealogies for their passengers, showed the tracks of crabs in the sand emerging with the lowering tide, and in this way crossed the bridge of immense cultural differences and opened eyes. All morning the children were about in the area, swimming, popping up around the kayaks which came near to the beach, and both children and ourselves became involved in exchanging thoughts and questions, whether by translation, mime, exchange of gifts, laughter or smiles.
The afternoon was spent in the city of Leon, the intellectual capital of Nicaragua, where during Sunday mass we slipped into the cathedral to visit the tomb of Ruben Darío, perhaps the most famous literary giant of the country, born and buried in Leon. Climbing narrow stairways, we were able to scan the charming city of churches and lines of active volcanoes from the cathedral rooftop.
Returning after sunset to the Sea Voyager, which had come to Corinto to collect us, we set sail south on the gentle swells of the Pacific for more adventures yet to come.
