Coiba Island, Panama

This morning I arose when it was still dark outside and the southern cross was visible, along with most of the planets. The water was calm, and the captain had the ship cruising slowly into the protected waters off the northern coast of Coiba Island. Previously used by the country as a penal colony because of its isolated location out in the Eastern Pacific, it is now a national park and the ocean around one of the largest marine reserves in the world.

Daybreak saw many early risers out the door and into the Zodiacs for a landing on the beach at park headquarters. Birdwatching was the objective, but the endemic Coiba agouti and the lush vegetation on the trails had everyone busy watching, seeing, learning whatever we could about this unique place. Early bird kayakers spotted marine turtles and tranquil bays.

After breakfast came what many had been waiting for…a chance to launch ourselves into the clear waters to look at what had been up to now hidden from us…the fish and marine invertebrates in all their varied forms and colors. We spent literally hours, both before and after lunch, in or on (in kayaks) the waters around the small islet of “Granito de Oro,” the “grain-of-gold” islet with its five coconut palms and other trees, sufficient to give us the desired shade needed in between snorkels, sand-castle-building and hermit crab racing. Wrasses, barracuda, snappers, damselfish, surgeonfish, corals, white-tipped reef sharks and a sighting of an olive ridley marine turtle were to be had. Non-snorkelers went for an impromptu Zodiac ride and found turtles and the pantropical spotted dolphins. By the time departure rolled around, most were deliciously toasted and waterlogged. What a fine way to end our visit in Panama, and now we are ready to set our sights on Costa Rica, tomorrow!