Coiba Island

Wrinkled fingers, waterlogged swimsuits, sunblock and white sand stand out as our primary memories of the day.

We actually started the day with a visit to the headquarters of Coiba National Park when day was dawning and the Southern Cross along with various planets and Scorpio still stood bright when the morning wake-up announcement was made for the intrepid. The birds were noisy, and the endemic Coiba agouti wandered the beach. Meanwhile the ship with its compliment of pre-breakfast stretchers on the sundeck made its way around the islets off shore to her anchorage near “Granito De Oro,” for today our very own “Grain of Gold” island.

White sand spread out from under the five coconut palms and Swartzia trees and gentle waves worked their way among the bits of broken coral and shells. Some of which, many of which, moved under their own power. Hermit crabs by the hundreds inhabit this beach, living a drama we will never understand, survival depending on finding the rare shell just right for their next growth stage in life. Chairs, coolers, snorkel gear and towels soon shared the space as we spread out into the waters to float over fingers of living corals, rocks and sand. A triggerfish spurts sand from its gill opening, rainbow wrasse and a juvenile streamer hogfish try to make a living cleaning the larger parrotfish, but the sneaky saber-toothed blennies send the clients scurrying off in frustration and pain. A huge Panamic green moray sends clouds of sand up as it winds its way between the rocks looking for prey. Even a white-tipped reef shark exits what it supposed was a safe hole when this neighborhood bully comes along.

A hawksbill turtle cruises nearby and allows us proximity for a moment before sailing off into the green yonder. Today we celebrate the Sea Voyager’s third anniversary of christening, and Maudy’s 70th of being.