Isla Bona, Panama

We arrived this morning at one of the richest bird colonies in the Bay of Panama. However, it was riches of a different sort that we encountered. It was a morning of unbelievable experiences.

As the first round of Zodiac cruisers were getting ready to embark, a small pod of dolphins were seen from the aft deck. Soon, after speeding up loading, all four Zodiacs were away. Having approached cautiously to avoid scaring the spotted dolphins, we soon found that this pod of about eight dolphins was so intent on their own activities that our presence was irrelevant. As we slowly moved about, we watched the dolphins move in a close pack at or near the surface. They alternately grouped together swimming in a tight band only to have two or three dart off on a short, fast run with the others following. Then there was more milling about in a close group and then another fast run. Those of us in the first cruisers considered ourselves privileged and wondered what we would say to our fellow guests when the second group came and the dolphins were gone. But, our luck held as the dolphins spent more than two hours engaged in their special, playful behavior often within feet of our Zodiacs so everyone saw them. It is hard to imagine a more intimate encounter.

We later cruised among the islands watching magnificent frigatebirds courting, some males with their red gular pouches fully extended. Others chased boobies in attempts to feast on stolen fish. On the cliffs were blue-footed and brown boobies and in the trees nesting and roosting brown pelicans. Even a peregrine falcon was spotted. The number of birds is an indication of the richness of these waters. The birds were spectacular, but yet another surprise awaited us.

As we returned to the ship for the final time, a Bryde’s whale surfaced between us and the ship. As guests that had already returned to the ship crowded the railing, the whale passed the ship and headed out to sea. As we watched him go, we spotted more dolphins, only this time they seemed larger. After weighing anchor, we headed out to sea in pursuit. It wasn’t long before these large dolphins were swimming near the bow, under the ship and on all sides. For most of us, it was the first time that we had seen false killer whales and their closeness startled and delighted us. The hotel manager, Erasmo, announced the cancellation of lunch so we could continue watching. It was, indeed, a magical moment.

In the end, the hotel manager relented, and we had lunch in the lounge enjoying the vistas in the Bay of Panama. And all of this excitement was only the beginning of the day as we waited for our turn to enter the Panama Canal.