At the entrance to the Pacific Ocean, currents tear past these rocky islands. Between moments of rain and sunshine, we hike, paddle, bushwhack, and photograph George Island. Mossy trails lead us to spectacular overlooks of Icy Strait, where ocean swells break on basaltic cliffs. In the afternoon, skilled drivers take us into the ripping tides around Inian Islands to behold scores of massive Steller sea lions. A placid sea otter bobs among the bull kelp. A pigeon guillemot alights upon a boulder overlooking an azure sea. The mist rolls in.