Silvery skies and a shroud of mist on the sea prevailed as we began the 65-mile journey to the upper end of Glacier Bay aboard the National Geographic Sea Lion. After brief introductions by our park ranger Chelsea and our Tlingit cultural interpreter Bertha, we approached the South Marble Islands. These small knobs of rock rising from the water are inhabited by sea lions and a multitude of birds that provided a cacophony of sound as we did a slow drive by. The crowd favorites were almost comical tufted and horned puffins, but many other species were seen, including gulls, kittiwakes, murres, guillemots, murrelets, and cormorants.
At the entrance to Tidal Inlet, we found a grey wolf that was apparently well fed and taking a nap in the gravel alongside a small stream. Around the corner at Gloomy Knob an eagle was feasting on a fish surrounded by gulls hoping for some kind of leftovers. Gloomy Knob has an interesting geological story to tell. Fossils indicate that it was originally a coral reef in the South Pacific and was transported to Alaska as part of the Alexander terrane.
The fog and low clouds started to lift just past Gloomy Knob as Bertha was telling us stories of her Huna Kaawu culture. By the time we got to the Margerie Glacier we had blue sky, sunshine, and the 15,300-foot summit of Mt. Fairweather was visible in the distance. Shortly after our arrival at the face of the glacier small chunks of ice began to fall, followed by house-sized blocks. As they hit the water a 100-foot-high-wall of spray was thrown up and out and the impact-generated wave definitely rocked our ship a half-mile away from the impact. Several more blocks of similar size did the same trick, making it an excellent calving day at the Margerie. We stopped briefly to view the Lamplugh Glacier, which has recently retreated to the extent that it is now just barely a tidewater glacier. We made another brief side trip into Geike Inlet to look for more wildlife, but only found more glorious scenery. However, the highlight of the day happened returning to Bartlett Cove—a killer whale that literally swam around our ship, surfacing periodically in different places, so we never knew where to look for the next view.
After dinner we had time on shore to do a short hike through the forest and enjoy the amenities of the historic Glacier Bay Lodge. All in all a day that will live long in our memories.
