A thundering avalanche and the tremendous tang of penguin mixed with seal provided us with an early morning wake up quite unlike any other we have experienced thus far during our explorations of South Georgia. It was barely 4:45 a.m., but we were anchored in Gold Harbour – one of South Georgia’s highlight destinations – and it has to be made the absolute most of. Our early morning start would ensure we could enjoy every minute of this wildlife-packed bay with its towering cliffs topped with the sheer glacier.
The face of this glacier provided us with a number of dramatic calving and avalanche events as the morning unfolded. Huge chunks of ice would split from the face, becoming a cascade of snow and ice as it shattered down the cliff face. Our vantage point from the far end of the bay was a spectacle in itself as we jostled amongst the king penguins.
It was the Southern elephant seals that really set this landing apart from any other as the king penguins waddled through in their characteristic fashion. At this time of year the young ‘weaner’ pups, which were born in October, are now left to fend for themselves having been nursed by their mothers and fed a diet of rich, fatty milk. They may already be weaned, but that certainly doesn’t stop these blubbery young seals from trying to suckle from anything they can find. And this morning at 5:30 a.m. they found us!
Sitting on the beach in Gold Harbour we were surrounded by hundreds of Southern Elephant seal weaners as they grunted, sneezed, snored and approached us. They even attempted to suckle our boots. There are few experiences to compare to the spectacle that is South Georgia and this morning attests to the thousands of miles we have all flown and sailed to be here. To be immersed in wildlife so unperturbed by our presence; so abundant and vibrant and so isolated from the rest of the world is truly special. Add to this the dramatic and beautiful backdrop that is Gold Harbour and you have a morning that really has to be experienced by seeing, smelling, hearing and feeling to be believed.
A morning spent at Gold Harbour is certainly hard to top, but as is always the case on board National Geographic Orion, the Captain and expedition leader always know how to keep us amazed and engrossed as we continue on our voyage across the Southern Ocean. From the gorgeous expanse of Gold Harbour and its myriad of wildlife, the ship sailed towards Drygalski Fjord: a remarkable waterway bordered by towering rock walls and culminating in a colossal glacier face.
This may have been our final day exploring South Georgia as we left the glacier in our wake and sailed south towards Antarctica, but it will certainly stay in our minds forever. South Georgia is known as a remarkable destination, but today truly surpassed any expectations we could have had.
