Golfo de Girolata & Piana, Corsica, France, 5/6/2016, National Geographic Orion
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National Geographic Orion
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Another day in paradise with blue skies, white sand beaches and turquoise waters.
Corsica is a land that yields up its secrets to the inquisitive, and today’s expedition mirrored this, as we ventured on sea, beach, coast, mountain and forest.
The day started with scenic Zodiac cruise through Scandola Nature Reserve, exploring its unique marine ecosystem, red volcanic rocks, isolated coves and small beaches. Jay regaled the guests with colorful stories of Corsica in a history presentation.
After weighing anchor at noon, National Geographic Orion’s chefs prepared a barbeque on the back deck so guests could enjoy the views of Monte Cinto, a 2700 m snowcapped peak just 20 km away as they ate lunch. After a brief reposition to the south, we anchored off Plage D’Arone, a place of importance to Corsicans as it was here that submarine Casablanca delivered the supplies needed to begin the resistance of the German/Italian occupation of the island in World War II.
While kayakers explored the azure blue green water and red granite bluffs, hikers and sightseers searched for the geological formations known as “Calanques” or visited the tiny village of Piana. Others opted to take in the beauty of Corsica horizontally on the beach.
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Last evening Captain Garcyanov of the National Geographic Orion navigated us to Gibraltar while there was still light remaining in the western sky. Just after dusk the unmistakable profile of the famous headland came into view as dolphins raced in front of the bow and a rising moon flecked silver on the waves. Gibraltar’s colossal rocky forehead nodded to rounded mountains to the south: the looming coast of Africa. We slept in darkness through the Pillars of Hercules from the Mediterranean Sea into the Atlantic Ocean, hugging the coast to arrive in Cadiz where we awoke to a brilliant morning. Most of us packed ourselves on buses for the two-hour ride to Seville for a full day walking tour. The first stop was the stunning Plaza de Espagna, a monumental semi-circle of elegant brick architecture with its lower levels paneled in a riot of colorful tiles that indicated the different districts and cities of Spain. The complex’s great tower reflected in the canal that arced through the wide plaza. Hawkers sold a rainbow of lacy fans off of sheets while the gypsy ladies offered bundles of rosemary in trade for coins. Next it was to the old city with its crooked lanes filled with bodegas, cafes, and tapas bars, onwards to the Alcazar Palace with its Muslim-inspired decorations reminiscent of the Alhambra. Here, too, lovely gardens were appended, with hibiscus and blossoming orange trees. Brilliant oleander and jacaranda were also in full spring bloom. The Alcazar’s courtyards and audience hall were like dreams of a long forgotten Orient, with decorations in Arabic calligraphy and tiles in complex geometric designs. Ceilings were done in wood parquetry, as if symbolizing the starry skies of heaven. The Seville Cathedral was next—the largest Gothic cathedral in the world. Its bell tower was once the minaret of a great mosque during the Muslim period of Andalucía. While the minaret was topped by a Christian bell tower, the mosque was utterly destroyed for the triumphant architectural statement of the new Catholic regime. The columns, which once held up the low roof of the mosque were now in a row encircling the new building, each chained to the next to represent Christianity’s victory over Islam on the Iberian Peninsula. The vaults of the cathedral were beautiful, fanning in ornate radial lines from atop gigantic columns. The altar is the largest in Christendom, over 20 meters high. Inside, too, was the purported tomb of Christopher Columbus, with four giant bronze pallbearers carrying his sarcophagus. We had some free time to lunch in parks or in the many tapas bars. It was warm and the city was energized by the spring weather and the influx of new visitors. We ended the day by going to a Flamenco Dance Foundation where we were given a tour of the exhibitions and then a fantastic private Flamenco performance. The singer, the guitar player, and the dancers all showcased their impressive skills, both in turn as soloists and as an ensemble. It was an impressive display of the region’s most distinctive art form.
I don't often find myself drinking five glasses of wine at 10:00 a.m. …10:00 p.m., maybe, but these were extenuating circumstances. When you are standing in the middle of a beautiful Provençal vineyard being offered tastings of the farm's highly praised organic and biodynamic wines directly from the vintner…well, you don't say no to that, no matter what time of day it is. It was an auspicious start to a lovely day spent (slightly tipsy) in Le Pradet, France, at the family egg farm and neighboring vineyard of our expedition leader, Alizé Carrère. This was an unusually personal outing for our group of nearly 100 guests and staff. While we are used to visiting high profile museums or spotting wildlife in remote locations, it's not often that we get invited en masse to enjoy a lovely day experiencing life like the locals do…enjoying good wine, food and the company of friends in a casual and intimate setting. Alizé's father Frederic and stepmother Monika started their farm four years ago, and they now spend their days taking care of their 600 egg layers, who produce almost 200,000 eggs every year that are sold mostly at local markets, restaurants and schools. You can always buy the eggs directly from the farm as well…there's a cooler filled with eggs on a small table outside; just help yourself and leave your money in the unlocked cash box, they trust you. 100% free range, organic and humanely treated, the Carrère Farm's production methods are part of a growing localvore movement focused on quality, freshness and craft over mass-production and uniformity. Alizé's family (along with the family dog Demi, an adorable Cavalier King Charles who happily accommodated our effusive petting and cuddling) guided us through their egg farm, explaining the philosophy and methods of their approach. National Geographic Orion 's chef, Lothar Greiner, was convinced…he brought 15 dozen eggs back to the ship to use for breakfast the following morning. That same loving attention and sustainable methodology is shown by their neighbor’s Domaine de la Navicelle vineyard, which produces a relatively small run of 70,000 bottles a year of some of the best wine you will ever have, and I should know, I drank plenty of it. We were guided through the property by the wine master, Jannick, who explained that no pesticides or other chemicals are used in the production of their wine. Their wines are fully organic and biodynamic (the latter referring to a natural approach to agriculture developed by Austrian philosopher Rudolph Steiner, also known for founding the Waldorf education model). The vines are nurtured and protected not by chemicals, rather by an herbal tincture spray made from natural ingredients such as dandelion and willow branch. To help the vines manage stress, they are sprayed with chamomile tea – I'm not kidding. Our day at the farm ended in the courtyard of the old farmhouse whose original structure was built on the property by Alizé's great-great-great-parents in 1820. With French music playing in the background and after a personal welcome from the town's mayor, we drank more wine and enjoyed a selection of local delectables prepared, fittingly enough, by a neighboring chef. A colorful bounty of vegetables erupted from platters, along with a delightfully pungent olive tapenade, delicious ratatouille and aged ham sandwiches and a polenta, egg and bacon delight (made with Alizé's family eggs, of course). The piece-de-resistance was the anchovy aioli, which has earned a spot high on my personal list of best things I have ever tasted. Its bright green color led many of us to assume it was a version of guacamole, but in fact, there were no avocados in it at all. After eating far too much of it, I asked the chef for the recipe, which he happily provided. It was symbolic of the friendly, welcome and open reception we were given by Alizé's family and the Le Pradet community. This was a very special and memorable day for all of us. Anchoiade (Makes 19 servings. Must be chilled for at least two hours before serving.) Step 1 Blend together: 500 grams of anchovies 50 grams of garlic 70 grams of parsley Step 2 Slowly blend together until thick 250 grams of chilled egg yolk 600 grams of chilled olive oil 500 grams of chilled sunflower oil Stir all of the ingredients together. Serve as a dip with vegetables and/or bread sticks. Try not to eat too much…I dare you.
Morning found us steaming north from our previous days of adventure in Corsica, headed for the mainland of France. After a morning at sea, we arrived in the picturesque village of Le Pradet in Provence. While National Geographic Orion kept station half a mile off the tiny port, we used our Zodiacs to ferry in to land. Our drivers were able to navigate narrow country bridges and overgrown lanes, eventually arriving to visit the family farm of expedition leader Alizé Carrère, where they raise organic eggs. The mayor welcomed us with a warm speech. A neighboring vineyard invited us to walk over through the newly plowed fields for a tasting and to learn about developing methods of sustainable grape growing. During the tasting and discussion, the onboard archaeologist scouted around for flakes of obsidian and flint, proof that residents thousands of years ago appreciated the lure of Provence. After the tastings and meanderings around the farms, a local shopkeeper arrived in a van and provided trays of nicoise sandwiches, sliced vegetables, sardine aiolis, cracker-crisp bread sticks and deliciously salty tapenades. Mediterranean breezes ruffled white linens and local children and puppies beguiled guests. It was a day for appreciating the good things in life. With reluctance, we said our farewells and drove to the hustle and bustle of the naval port of Toulons, where National Geographic Orion had repositioned to greet us before we headed for our reluctant farewells in Monaco.
