After a slightly rocky evening sailing south, we awakened aboard National Geographic Sea Bird in the tropics with waters particularly rich with marine life. Naturalists were on the bow early on the lookout for humpback whales. There were blows in the distance in all directions. We watched from well before breakfast, grabbed a quick bite while the captain maneuvered closer to a group, and then we were back on the bow watching lots of surface activity—pec-slapping, and breaching and breathing and fluking down. The air felt fresh and slightly chilly in the shade and it was marvelous to feel the seas rolling beneath and the refreshing wind on skin. After a period of activity, the whales seemed to mellow out and we continued southward towards a shallow shoal area named Gorda Banks. More whales feeding and breathing. It always calms me to be on the sea and take in all the sights and sounds and smells and sensations.
We had an early lunch and then tied up to the dock at the marina at La Playa, a few miles from downtown San Jose del Cabo. This old town was settled by missionaries since a river running through it provides an oasis to all nearby settlements. Some of the group went to the estuary—a last stop for migrating birds on their way south as well as home to many resident birds year-round. Bird sightings included many species of egret and heron, white-faced ibis, osprey, red-tailed hawk, American kestrel, coots, grebes, spotted sandpiper, white-winged dove, and the beautiful black-necked stilt.
There was an opportunity also to walk around the town, and to get an insider look at small glass-blowing factory at the back of the local retail shop. People visited local art galleries, jewelry shops, and souvenir places, and stopped in to wet their whistle with a cold drink or paleta—ice cream on a stick.
Back on board we gathered in the lounge for a talk on whales, while the ship made her way down to the tip of the peninsula and the 100-million-year old granite rocks and famous “el Arco” arch. We arrived just before for sunset—and had great views from the bow of the green flash while the hotel staff provided cocktails and appetizers. At this writing the ship is making her way around the peninsula and the winds are picking up. Time to batten down the hatches for an adventurous night ride.
