The island of Gotland seemed to float towards us out of the sea mist from another age. Because of its unique location in the middle of the Baltic Sea, over the years its Baltic neighbours (Danes, Germans, Swedes and Russians) have looked on it with covetous eyes. Vikings founded the town of Visby and filled it with gold from their trading voyages throughout the known world. It grew richer still when German Hanseatic merchants came, built their warehouses, and encircled the town with a strongly defended stone wall. Miraculously, this wall with its fairy-tale towers and gateways has survived almost intact since the 13th century, and brought the town its UNESCO World Heritage status. Sixteen churches of all complexions were soon built within its narrow crowded streets. However, in 1361 the treasures of Visby attracted the interest of the powerful Danish king Valdemar IV. The local farmers could not repel the advancing Danish army, and some 1800 of them perished before the city gates, followed by the rapid capitulation of the townspeople.
Today Visby experienced a friendlier invasion, as we went ashore, negotiating nesting terns and eiders, to explore for ourselves the glories of Gotland. Our foot detachment had delightful tours within the city walls ending in the outstanding Fornsalen Museum where these events and many more were graphically presented. The cycle division made a sortie into the countryside where they discovered the treasures of coffee and Gotland pastries. The bus contingent made the furthest advance into the island: beyond the town walls the mist parted like a curtain to reveal a sunlit landscape under a blue sky. The tour visited the lovely church of Eskelhem, dating from the arrival of Christianity in the first half of the 11th century, decorated with rare frescoes from the 13th century. Next were the ruins of an early Cistercian monastery and an enigmatic Bronze Age boat-shaped granite setting, sailing on its timeless journey. Today peace and prosperity and a celebrated microbrewery are to be found in Visby.
After an early dinner, another Swedish island hove into sight. This was Stora Karlsö, an important nature reserve lying on the migration routes of many species, and the breeding site of about 7500 pairs of common guillemot and 4500 pairs of razorbill. Enthusiastic local rangers welcomed us and guided us around the island, through wildflower meadows and up to Stora Förvar, a 25-meters-deep limestone cave which had been used by human beings for almost 9,500 years since Mesolithic times. Vinnie found some ancient animal bones within its depths and treated us to an impromptu demonstration of the comparative method of animal bone analysis. As we returned towards the ship in fading light, the sea mist silently returned to claim its own.
