Today was our introduction to the wonders of Haida Gwaii. Overnight we were blessed with calm seas as we crossed Hecate Strait, and awoke as National Geographic Sea Lion approached Queen Charlotte City. After breakfast we trooped off the dock and onto waiting buses, which whisked us to the Haida Heritage Centre.
The morning was foggy, turning cloudy and eventually sunny. We were welcomed by the staff of the Heritage Centre and met Elsie Stewart-Burton, our Haida interpreter who will join us for the next few days as we explore her homeland. We received an orientation to Haida history and culture before heading outside to learn about several beautiful totem poles on the grounds of the centre. It was amazing to learn about the intricacy and interweaving of story and art. From the stories of the totems, we moved to a large shelter where canoes and totems were being rehabilitated. The size and grandeur of the canoes gave us a glimpse into the past splendor of Haida transportation. Several children were also hard at work constructing kayaks from red cedar, and let us watch as they fit the ribs to the frame.
Inside the centre was a fantastic museum showcasing the art, clothing, regalia, tools and implements of Haida culture through the ages. It also included a natural history wing filled with a large collection of stuffed birds and small mammals. Panels detailed out recent and ongoing research and conservation projects in the islands. We returned to the ship loaded with beautiful Haida artwork and gifts for friends and family back home.
During the afternoon we sailed south along the coast of Haida Gwaii, aiming for SGang Gwaii. Out on the bow we spotted several minke whales, harbor porpoise, a few humpbacks, and a plethora of birds, including a large group of gulls avidly feasting on a ball of bait fish.
Our fearless leader Rab Cummings and cultural interpreter Elsie presented an introduction of the land we will be visiting by foot and zodiac tomorrow. The evening was spent tucked into a cove as the sun set over the mountains.
