Haida Gwaii, 9/10/2024, National Geographic Sea Bird
Aboard the
National Geographic Sea Bird
Alaska
National Geographic Sea Bird visited Haida Gwaii today. In the morning, we visited a Museum and Cultural Center where we learned about the house frontal poles and other utilitarian and creative objects.
In the afternoon, there were a variety of hikes on offer in the forest near Spirit Lake. Everyone was very touched by the beautiful surroundings and culture on our first day in this special place.
I like to remind people that there are very few big surprises left in life, but if you are out in nature, with an open mind and a lot of time, you never know what you will find.
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We awoke this morning in the calm protected waters of the Inside Passage in British Columbia. These narrow passages are protected by the numerous islands buttressing the wild coastline; we quietly passed through the misty temperate rainforest on these rich marine channels as the eagles, gulls, shorebirds, and waterfowl barely acknowledged our intrusion. Our morning aboard, however, was busy with a variety of activities and presentations, interspersed with time to soak in the mysterious misty landscape. In the afternoon we had tours in our expedition landing craft through the Jackson Narrows Marine Reserve, where small streams poured out of the dark, green forest. Cedars, hemlocks, spruces and alders overhung the banks, the lush verdant growth starkly clinging in a thin organic layer to the exposed gray granodiorite rocks. The presence of numerous bald eagles and glaucous-winged gulls gave away the presence of spawning salmon in the narrow creek mouths. The brown-stained waters emphasized the intimate connection of the forest and the marine landscape surrounding us.
We spent this morning in the protected waters of Daajing Giids in the archipelago of Haida Gwaii. It was then time to cross Hecate Strait, so we enjoyed a laid-back afternoon while we sailed through the rougher waters back to the Inside Passage.
Today we awoke before sunrise and made our way onto the buses that would take us up to the small community of Old Masset on the northern end of Haida Gwaii. Our group took turns visiting two incredibly important Haida artists, Jim Hart and Christian White. Jim welcomed us into his home and workshop to share his projects, enrapturing us with his stories along the way. At Christian’s we learned about the totem poles he raised out front, and then he brought us to his carving shed where he was working on a new totem pole and a canoe. The previous canoes he’s carved hung on the walls behind him, telling the story of Haida past and present. We were welcomed back into the longhouse for a traditional Haida lunch, including venison stew, smoked sockeye salmon, pickled sea asparagus, and other wonderful treats. Christian and his family and friends performed several songs and dances for us, which we were so honored to witness. Before heading back to the ship, we were able to stop in some local stores and support Haida artists in the area. A truly special day here in Haida Gwaii!
