The windows of National Geographic Sea Lion were dark when many of us made our way up or down into the forward lounge. Dawn’s first light was just making its way over the eastern edge of a point called Sandspit. Pink clouds began reflecting on the calm seas, clear skies opened up above and slowly, sunrise began to decorate the harbor of Queen Charlotte City. Our plan for the day was a drive north along the entire length of Graham Island along the only road leading to one of the oldest village sites in Haida Gwaii the town of Old Massett. We boarded two busses and one van and began our journey north, arriving in the late morning. Once in Old Massett we divided into two groups according to bus colors and one group headed to the north end of town to James and Rosemary Hart’s house. Upon arrival we were greeted by Rosemary who invited us to come into the carving area, which consisted of a huge outside area just next to their house where an enormous and complex totem pole was nearing completion. At least six carvers were at work on this reconciliation pole which has been planned and worked on for over two years! James Hart a hereditary chief and master carver jumped up on one of many large blocks of wood and began a wonderfully detailed description of the work in process. Questions flew through the air along with wood chips and under warm and blue skies we were taken into the spell of a working village completely immersed in Haida culture. Each carver, each family member, each neighbor came forward to share conversation with us.
After approximately two hours our busses traded houses and we found ourselves at the carving shed and Big House of Christian White. Once again a master carver and chief stepped forward to share his world, which has touched much of the planet as northwest coast art reaches out onto the world stage. We learned about ancient myths, canoe journeys, and potlatches. As guests we were then invited into Christian’s Big House and shared traditional foods often served at feasts and potlatches. Halibut, many varieties of salmon, eulachon, sea asparagus, kelp, fry bread, and for dessert Indian ice cream or soap berries! What a delight! Our meal was followed by a fabulous dance performance that included participating in the woman’s and man’s dance, much to the enjoyment of all.
All too soon our afternoon came to an end and we returned to the only transportation on Haida Gwaii: two school busses. We followed the road south back to Queen Charlotte City and the waiting National Geographic Sea Lion. Our luck with weather continued and as the sun made its way west we adjourned to the bridge deck for cocktails and hors’doeuvres. The captain positioned our ship so she was following the wind and in the most gorgeous conditions we began our journey south, heading towards one of the most sacred sites in Hadia Gwaii: SGang Gwaay, or Wailing Island Town. Here the ancestors rest and the poles that mark their lives and world remain standing reminding all who visit, of the importance of one of the richest cultures in the world.
Today we had visited two important chief’s homes, reminding us of the renaissance and continuum of northwest coast culture, which is alive and well and has left a profound impression and deeply touched each of us.
