Sheets of vertical rain hurtled across Hercules Bay in strong winds as the ship weighed anchor prior to our departure.
However it might be better to go back to the start of our last day in South Georgia.
The ship made her way under gray skies and seas, a few seabirds accompanying us together with the ever-present fur seals. During breakfast the fog thickened and the rain became more intense.
Two rounds of Zodiac cruises were scheduled for the morning, the highlight expected to be looks at macaroni penguins. Just after breakfast the first round headed off. Getting into the boats was a challenge as considerable swells swept into this beautiful small bay. Thanks to the expert help from the crew and staff the challenge was safely handled. Once on our way the ride was smooth enough, although the occasional gusts of wind were often very strong and no matter what precautions were taken the water would often sweep over the Zodiacs showering us all.
However the elements only enhanced the experience of this beautiful location. The entrance to the bay is narrow, steep rock walls rise ever steeper into the head of the bay, imparting a sense of intimacy. The banding and folding in the rocks is spectacular, often rising almost vertically from the sea, at other times folding and in a couple of places a tortured mass of contortions. Today the intimacy is enhanced by the low clouds swirling overhead which do not allow us to see the tops of the surrounding mountains. A band of lichens encircle the rocks just above the intertidal zone and these give rise to banks of mosses and other plants, including tussock grasses. The greens overwhelmed our senses in their resplendent wetness.
There are waterfalls tumbling down the steep sides, mostly delicate ribbon falls, however there is a bigger fall just to the right at the head of the bay, with two big drops as the water cascades down from the invisible heights and empties into a lovely sandy beach with a number of fur seals and some gentoo penguins.
Kelp beds abound offshore and anchored to the shoreline rocks, what we call Medusa algae glides up and down in slick fashion with the swell.
Along our way we come across a lone South Georgia pipit feeding actively in the intertidal area. It is remarkable that we have sighted this wonderful little bird at every landing of our South Georgia experience. Evidence of a job well done by the group charged with eliminating the country’s rat population!
Of course we get pretty close views of the macaroni penguins all the way up into the tussock grass and spilling over the top where these plants cede to the bear rocks. It is on these chosen steep sides that this remarkable penguin chooses to build their nests and breed. We see good numbers of birds on the bare rocks which take them back to the water. They look so elegant with their orange feathered plumes adorning their foreheads and trailing off on either side of their heads. There are also some birds molting, they hunker down quietly saving energy, their back feathers, usually a dark gray color, today looking a tired and worn brown. There are also some fledged juveniles dotted about as well as an occasional chinstrap penguin on the edges.
Between the rounds of cruises the rain slowly intensifies, the big drops piercing the water surface. By the time the second round begins we are experiencing a downpour. The number of waterfalls suddenly are multiplied all the way round the bay with dozens of gentle waterfalls appearing as a result of the deluge and as the rain continues these get bigger and bigger. The big waterfall at the head of the bay becomes a raging torrent. Water, dirty brown in color, steadily trickles down the area where the penguins breed, washing the guano into the sea which now has become a milky tan color next to the shoreline. These rich nutrients are thus washed into the sea to be recycled back into the food webs. To our amazement we watch a snowy sheathbill make its way over to one of these guano rivulets and with delight drinks and drinks. It is truly a bird of disgusting habits, but it has to be recognized also of importance to a healthy environment.
As we sail from this beautiful spot we enjoy a hot cup of hot chocolate laced with a liquor of choice. The drinks were served up by some recognizably friendly pirates.
As the afternoon progresses we begin to experience heavier and heavier seas. Beginning tea time and for the rest of the day we are in the middle of a full-blown storm with steady three- to four-meter waves and strong winds. Before Recap we are sailing a more comfortable course, headed for the Willis Islands to the northwest of the main island of South Georgia. In the distance rocky islands and reefs emerge out of the gloom and we sail through to get into the lee of the seas coming from the north. The relief is felt immediately and as we head westwards again we experience very strong winds which foam up the flat seas, many willywaws rise up and howl past the ship; some of the gusts reaching 60 knots.
By dinnertime the last of the land has disappeared and we are once again in heavy seas. Many of our shipmates don’t make it for dinner. We all retire to bed having put our clocks back one hour, however we wonder if we will be able to take advantage of that extra hour as the conditions mean that there will be some rocking and rolling.
