We spent a brilliant day around Icy Strait under bright skies.
We awoke in Idaho Inlet, a long rent in Chichagof Island’s northern side. This inlet is home to bachelor sea otters whose favorite pastime is diving for clams. We found a few otters, and also a couple of whales patrolling Idaho’s mouth.
After breakfast we hopped into kayaks to paddle around the Shaw Islands. The water was glassy and the sun made every color stand out splendidly. Most were pleased to find a knot of twenty or so harbor seals that had just scuttled down from some haul-out. The seals, though shy, are curious, and often approached our kayaks. Next we walked along Fox Creek. We ascended undulating swales past cow parsnip, chocolate lily and Lyngby’s sedge. All of these are starters on a bear’s annual diet, and Fox Creek is full of ursine history. We saw a mossy swath pocked with a row of divots where bears regularly placed their feet. Nearby, trees raked by bear claws showed the daunting size of these lords of the forest. We also saw the work of the red squirrel, diminutive but feisty.
In the afternoon, we took our inflatables through the Inian Islands. Rich green water swirled around us, driven by impressive tidal currents. These currents sweep fish of many sorts past the Inians, and fishing creatures of several sorts gather here to enjoy the regular feast. We saw trees dripping with eagles, and the dogged flapping of cormorants, and dapper guillemots skittering over the waves. We also saw sea lions. These huge beasts lie in untidy piles over the rocks. Though they love company, they cannot ever seem to enjoy it without constant bickering. We heard the throaty roaring of their petty fights. Though ungainly at rest, sea lions are supremely agile in the water. The ‘lions regularly approached us, and while thrilled at their proximity, we could hardly help but be amazed at the deft and speedy motion of their bulky bodies. We also saw sea otters diving for fruits-de-mer, or preening with engaging industriousness. One was eating a basket star, munching happily on Dreamsicle-colored gorgon curls.
Icy Strait and its surroundings are rich even by Southeast Alaskan standards, and to enjoy them on such a day was an outstanding experience.
