A grey rainy morning greeted us as the National Geographic Orion approached the island of Île d’Aix.  While many of us hoped that the sun would break through the clouds, we donned rain gear and set out to explore the small island for our first morning excursion.  The rain stayed with us through the morning, but did not stop us from enjoying our time there.  We strolled through the quaint village streets, enjoying the colors of the architecture and flowers that decorated the buildings.  Many of us visited the Musée Napoléon, where we learned about Napoleon’s influence in the area.  He spent his last days on Île d’Aix before surrendering to the British forces.

As the morning progressed and the rain lessened a bit, locals on bikes and foot began to go about their daily tasks…going to the market, the post office, and the like.  One small group of us spent time visiting with one local, “Papi Jean.”  Eighty-eight years young, Jean told us about growing up on the island and working as a sailor on cargo ships around the world.  He served as the mayor of the village and now cares for the church since the priest comes in for services from nearby La Rochelle on the ferry.  No doubt he had many more stories to tell, had we had more time in the village.

After lunch we repositioned to the port city of La Rochelle for our afternoon excursions.  Local guides led us through the city’s center, where we learned about the distinctive architecture and history of the area.  We also visited Chateau la Peraudiere where cognac has been produced for many generations.  We learned about where the grapes are grown, how they are harvested and distilled, and how the aging process changes the characteristics of the final product.  We saw how as the cognac is aged longer, it becomes darker and richer in color.  Later we were able to experience the difference as we tasted 5, 30 and 70-year cognac, as well as Pineau des Charentes, a fortified wine made with cognac and unfermented grape juice, typically served with dessert. 

A seafood dinner at Chez Andre in La Rochelle’s historic center was a satisfying finale a full and varied day exploring the western coast of France.