In true Southeast style, the day dawned cool with drizzle and fog. Early risers and folks in the stretch class were treated to humpbacks before breakfast, along with the odd sea otter and pigeon guillemot.

As guests boarded expedition landing craft for morning exploration, the rain began in earnest but the views and experiences were superb. Sea lions frolicked through raging river-like currents, beating salmon against the water’s surface to break them into manageable chewing chunks. Gulls squabbled over the leftovers, plucking fractured salmon bits from the surface. An island shrouded in mist revealed dozens of sea lions hauled up along rocky cliffs, growling into one another’s faces, steaming, and shoving in a never-ending struggle to attain “king of the hill.” Tufted puffins whizzed overhead, cormorants flew with long outstretched necks, and as the sun broke through the fog bald eagles spread their wings to dry. Humpback whales blew and dove, sea otters were spotted and the boats bobbed in the ocean swell.

After lunch, a dozen or more humpbacks surrounded the ship. Mothers and calves surfaced and dove side by side, while nearby other whales slapped their tails and pectoral fins against the surface. A calf breached several times near the ship, causing a flurry of excitement among photographers. The undersea specialist dove nearby to film the exciting world of kelp, jellies and sculpins.

Afternoon activities focused on Fox Creek, where guests came to shore to experience prime brown bear habitat. From the intertidal area to meadows bursting with young berries, the area around Fox Creek impressed us with the abundance of bear fodder. Walking through the forest we saw many signs of bear presence, from piles of scat to perennial bear trails, belly holes and bite trees. The sheer size of the bears capable of clawing the trees so high above our heads gave us all pause.

Our return to the ship was graced by a full and vibrant rainbow, followed by a presentation on sea otters and appetizers. The evening was spent searching for further humpback whale activity along the boundary of Glacier Bay National Park.