Today we explored the western realm of the archipelago! I woke everyone soon after 0600 with a ship wide call saying that the dolphins had arrived even earlier than hoped for, and that we might not find any more later – so “rise and shine, folks!” We had a pod of several hundred common dolphins leaping and splashing all around us for at least a half hour. The morning was spectacular; calm ocean, clear skies and gentle breeze.
After breakfast we gathered at the bridge to watch the GPS change from northern to southern degrees as we crossed the equator. We enjoyed a Zodiac cruise along the dramatic coast at Punta Vicente Roca and saw our first flightless cormorants. Instead of flying to find food, these big, strong footed birds dive up to 300 feet deep! We snorkeled in the surge and the wildlife was fabulous. Everyone who braved the chilly waters saw dozens of sea turtles, iguanas, penguins and many fish of a great variety of species.
Lunch was welcome after all the exercise and excitement and we thought we deserved a siesta…. But I had been on deck searching for whales and ran to the dining room near the end of lunch with an exciting announcement: a sperm whale was “logging” – resting and breathing on the surface about a half mile ahead of the ship. No doubt he had been diving deep and feeding on squid. He was catching his breath and preparing to dive again and we were delighted to get a good look before he dove. An hour later we navigated quite close to another larger sperm whale and when he dove straight down he threw his magnificent fluke all the way out of the water. We hollered in appreciation as he disappeared.
Amazingly, there were 3 baleen whales, tropical or Bryde’s whales by name, in the distance and as we approached the nearest one we saw its broad gray back and small triangular dorsal fin. What a lucky day we have had for viewing cetaceans!
Delayed slightly by the whales (but no one was complaining!) we disembarked at 1545 on the black barren lava shores of the youngest island, Fernandina. Here we found myriad wildlife! Marine iguanas were everywhere and of every size. Sea lions entertained us with their antics, as always. Pups nursed and romped and one very pregnant female will probably have her pup during the night. A huge beach-master male sea lion chased a smaller male when he emerged out of the water to inspect his territory. We returned to the ship as the sun set in a ball of fiery orange. The wispy clouds in the darkening sky blushed pink as the afternoon turned to evening.
