When the western province of Galapagos is reached, something stirs in the more experienced visitor of this archipelago, and thus the Naturalists on board are a little more alert and eager to see what surprises the day has for us. The Bolivar Channel is narrow, natural bottleneck for marine species migrating in the north-bound currents. Here the unexpected can happen in the blink of an eye, young and active volcanoes dominate the horizon 360 degrees. In this specific area, history has taken tragic turns and lives have been changed forever. Early in the morning some of us are on the lookout for dolphins, whales, marine birds, and any other suprises.
Most on board now realize how wonderful a voyage in Galapagos really is. There are plenty of activities, fair weather, unique animals and organisms, great food, a new culture to learn, and a great crowd to share in it all. The atmosphere on board is therefore relaxed and festive as folks start to bond, jokes are made, and new friendships are born.
During the morning walk at Urbina Bay we find bright yellow iguanas, a medium sized tortoise, and various shore- and marine birds. This walk is one of the longest, starting along a rugged shore and later winding through a dry and inhospitable landscape where only the sturdiest plants and reptiles like the aforementioned can survive. Most of all it shows us how unforgiving these islands are and when we finish the walk we eagerly wade into the cool ocean, floating and soaking to cool down. What a treat! Once back on board naturalist Jonathon Aguas has an interesting talk about the human history of these islands. It is mostly a story of challenges, even today.
After lunch and siesta, the National Geographic Islander is anchored in Tagus Cove, a submerged crater.
We explore the crater in various ways; by kayak, snorkeling, with a Zodiac ride, and at last with a great hike along the rim of the crater to a high viewpoint overlooking the massive flanks of the shield volcano called Darwin. The air is still and the sun is quickly setting. Not too far away a hawk cries. Walking back to the ship we breathe in the cleanest air heavy with the smell of incense trees. This is a different enchantment, this feels special.
