Isla Nueva, 11/11/2021, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Antarctica
By early morning, National Geographic Explorer was sailing in a southerly course for Antarctica. The sea conditions were calm as dawn splashed all over the sky in giant brush strokes. Over Isla Nueva, the subtle pinks rose over the island before disappearing overhead as they blended into pale yellows and oranges, which on turn were swallowed up by blues and greens where the sun would soon appear. Over in the southeast the jagged peaks of Staten Island rose majestically, the rest of the island clearly visible.
Eduardo Shaw has travelled widely as a naturalist and guide. For the past 34 years he has lived with his family in northwestern Patagonia, working as a teacher and in community projects before returning to expedition ships. Eduardo is deeply committe...
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We departed Puerto Natales very early to arrive on time for one of the most beautiful but narrow places we will cross on our way to Karukinka, the White Narrows. The Zodiacs were dropped. After the navigation team measured the appropriate current, National Geographic Explorer passed through while Peale’s dolphins played around the ship. The afternoon was a pleasant time to listen to more lectures and enjoy our final moments on board. Outside, the rain and the wind were blowing, so we took full advantage of the facilities on the ship. We enjoyed our day and relaxed a bit before our last wonderful day in Patagonia.
Can the weather get any better? March is mid-fall here, equivalent to October back home. It was still dark when we boarded buses for our full-day tour of southern Chile’s iconic Torres del Paine National Park. We drove north. A rosy glow at the skyline slowly transformed into golden light, casting slanted shadows as the sun rose over the hills to the east, illuminating the mountains in front of us. Some of us were on the panoramic tour, visiting key scenic lookouts and finishing at Rio Serrano for a traditional Patagonian asado, or barbecue. Whole lambs had been roasting over lenga wood fires all morning. The rest of us were on a slightly longer tour, with two lovely hikes breaking up the bus ride. (We still enjoyed the lamb barbecue!) We were blessed with blue skies, sunshine, and no wind, which is very unusual for southern Patagonia. Well, that is, until our second hike, up a high hill called Cerro Condor, where the wind was so strong that it was hard to walk…at times, even to stand! After our delicious barbecue, we headed back to National Geographic Explorer , where it was docked at Puerto Natales, ready to continue our adventure.
We were up before sunrise this morning to watch the pink glow as it descended over the mountains and glaciers around us. A short hike brought us to the foot of Bernal Glacier just when the colors were at their most brilliant. We had a second opportunity to stand in awe as we contemplated the sheer power of ice needed to carve this beautiful landscape. Back on board, we stretched our minds in an abstract direction with a workshop on the use of watercolor to document our expedition from Naturalist Shannon Malone. Our timing was planned around our passage through the Kirke Narrows. We needed to pass through at slack tide to navigate the strait, which is barely three times the width of National Geographic Explorer .
