The Midriff Island region is rarely visited and filled with surprises. Immediately after breakfast we landed at Isla San Estéban, a site once occupied by native Seri Indians and now home to some good-sized lizards. A rocky incline flanked the wide arroyo where we hiked in search of spiny-tailed iguanas and the more elusive pinto chuckwallas. As soon as we left the shore, we started spotting iguanas basking in the morning sun. Later, several groups discovered a chuckwalla. After a pleasant walk here, we returned to the ship for other adventures.
The anchor dropped after lunch beside Isla San Pedro Mártir, an isolated nesting island for seabirds. Blue-footed and brown boobies wheeled overhead as we climbed into our boats for cruises along the shore. Immense rafts of eared grebes floated near the ship. Now and then red-billed tropicbirds passed above us with their streamer tails trailing behind. Yearling sea lions seemed fascinated by our presence and tagged along with our boats, leaping like porpoises beside us.
Before long we returned to the ship to sail south in search of marine life. Suddenly a pod of pilot whales appeared. These toothed whales, like killer whales, live in family groups. Their inky black bodies glistened in the golden sunlight. We remained with these interesting creatures until sunset and then retreated to the dining room for a delicious dinner as dusk settled in around us.
