James Ross Island and Snowhill Island, Weddell Sea, 2/27/2024, National Geographic Resolution
Aboard the
National Geographic Resolution
Antarctica
Today was full on an Antarctic scale, that is to say, HUGE. While our visiting scientists searched for limpets, and the undersea team took the ROV exploring, the rest of us spent the morning kayaking amongst bergs on a glassy bay at James Ross Island. Afterwards, a few brave souls polar plunged into the same water.
We repositioned to Snow Hill Island in the afternoon to visit the hut where the infamous Nordeskjold expedition spent 24 long months, and we got to enjoy the beach littered with the same fossils that were here with them.
Being lucky enough to have two homes—Australia and the U.S.A.—has given Tanish (who goes by Tani) a deep love for diversity among ecosystems and cultures and a desire to learn about them.
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After yesterday’s windy start to our South Georgia visit, it was delightful to awaken this morning to calm conditions in Hercules Bay. Exploring by Zodiac, we found riches of avian and pinniped wildlife, lush vegetation, and swirling kelp forests. Macaroni penguins clambered down steep hillsides from their tussock burrows to the sea. Light-mantled albatross soared overhead, and playful young fur seals filled the intertidal zone. Strikingly folded sedimentary rocks created a dramatic landscape. The blustery and snowy afternoon was spent at Grytviken, one of six former shore-based whaling stations on the island. In the small cemetery, we honored the legacy and leadership of Sir Ernest Shackleton with a toast. Hikers climbed above the site for a view over the bay, while others enjoyed walking tours with a historian from the South Georgia Heritage Trust to learn about station infrastructure and daily life. The whaling and sealing past of this region provide a tangible reminder that modern conservation efforts are critical to the Southern Ocean’s ecological future.
The day began with high winds as we cruised through the dramatic Bay of Isles. The air was filled with excitement as we observed massive icebergs drifting silently amidst the swells. Thousands of king penguins dotted the shorelines near Salisbury Plain, their vivid colors striking against the muted backdrop of the Southern Ocean. Overhead, the skies were alive with birdlife, from skuas and petrels to albatrosses gliding effortlessly on the wind. In the afternoon, we made a memorable landing at Right Whale Bay. Here, we hiked through tussock grass and along rocky terrain to a vast king penguin colony, where the sights and sounds of their thriving community were unforgettable. Some guests ventured farther to reach a glacier, rewarded with stunning views of its icy expanse. Others lingered near the beach, captivated by fur seal pups as they played and explored the shoreline, offering countless photographic opportunities. As the day drew to a close, the dynamic landscapes, vibrant wildlife, and powerful weather reminded us of South Georgia’s untamed beauty and the privilege of exploring this remote corner of the world.
This morning, we woke to relatively calm following seas as we continued our journey towards South Georgia Island. We had a great lecture program this morning by some of our naturalists, and in between presentations, guests were encouraged to join us out on deck and on the bridge in search of wildlife. After lunch, we had some great, albeit short sightings of numerous humpback whales and many seabirds, including wandering albatross and various petrels and shearwaters. Our undersea specialists Christine and Adam showed some incredible footage from their dives in the Falkland Islands, and our onboard Historian Ezra rounded the day off with a talk about Shackleton and the Endurance expedition. Everyone is excited to reach South Georgia tomorrow, and we’re all praying for kind weather conditions over the next four days!
