We awakened this morning to overcast skies with slightly cooler temperature -- 45 degrees -- and flat calm water with no wind. Seemed like good conditions to take off our shoes during morning light exercise and step on squishy blue balls to hydrate the connective tissue in our feet. There were some chilly toes in the 45 degrees and bare feet, but I knew we were lucky to have dry calm decks this morning… everything is relative. After breakfast we gathered in the lounge to hear a comprehensive and lively introductory presentation on the native art and culture of the Northwest coast. Dedicated naturalists on the bow kept eyes peeled for wildlife in these marine-rich waters, but the killer whales were elusive.
During lunch the National Geographic Sea Lion docked along Cormorant Island at the village of Alert Bay. We donned our rain gear (because by that time the clouds had begun to release their burden) and many took the opportunity to stretch legs on the mile-long board-walked shoreline to the U’Mista Cultural Center. There we were introduced to the local Kwakwaka’wakw culture and potlatch regalia. The talk in the morning and the museum visit were a fine lead-in to the main event of the day. A short walk (or shuttle ride) up the hill brought us to the Big House to witness traditional dances by the Tsasala Cultural group. Stepping into the Big House was like entering another realm. A huge fire blazed in the center of the room – which was the only source of heat – and was surrounded by dirt/sand floor. Built-in wooden bleachers rose from floor to very-high ceiling on either side, and straight back were huge carvings of animal totems, and a long upturned hollowed-out cedar trunk that ran the length of the back wall, and functioned as a drum. We were treated to pieces of various dances done in traditional garb accompanied by singing and drumming, and interspersed with explanations of the customs and introductions to the children -- who were especially endearing. Afterwards we were invited to feast on delicious wild sockeye salmon and bannock bread with home-made preserves. Yum!
