There is an authenticity and an ancient knowledge we can feel in our bones when we enter an old growth forest; perhaps it is the ‘rightness’ of an intact ecosystem... Pond Island, tucked into a protected cove of Kelp Bay on the northeast side of rugged Baranof Island, was a perfect place for us to tap into some of the wild magic of Southeast Alaska’s coastal wilderness. Just a few steps from the rocky intertidal and we were wrapped in deep damp greens of soft mosses below our feet and towering Sitka spruce and western hemlock trees above. Spring is evident everywhere—from the clipped green shoots poking up through last years’ dried grasses, to the first delicate pink flowers of the early blueberry. Bright green leaves are unfolding in the understory and at the forest edges. We waded through the creek that swept down from a beaver pond, slogged through some delightful Alaskan mud and knelt in squishy sphagnum moss to photograph the first flowers of the season.
Later, out on the bow of the National Geographic Sea Bird with the chilly south wind happily at our backs, we scanned Chatham Strait and Chichigof Island for wildlife. Andy, our resident whale expert, sighted the tall black dorsal fin of a male killer whale and the afternoon’s excitement began. There were about six animals, likely a group of ‘resident’ or fish eating whales. Captain Kay deftly maneuvered our small vessel and we all enjoyed great looks at these exciting large dolphins. On the shore Justin spotted a large brown bear working the intertidal. The bears have recently come down the mountain from their dens above treeline and started foraging on the green shoots of sedges, roots, and pretty much anything they can find after their five-month-long fast. Salmon will begin to fill the streams in mid-July, but until then, the bears will have to get by on a rather spare diet.
Tonight we are cruising north along the snow-capped and cloud draped peaks of Chichigof Island, making our way toward the outer coast and wild explorations of the very best kind.
