King George River flows for 125 kilometers, finally dropping into Koolama Bay and the Timor Sea. Emanating from a source at 212 meters in elevation, the river ends at sea level, the final 80 meters of the descent coming in the form of twin waterfalls. The falls are so well-hidden up a lengthy maze of canyons that they and the river were not seen by Europeans until Charles Conigrave found them in 1911. Many sites around the world are named to honor King George III (including sites visited by the great explorer James Cook), but this river, much more recently discovered, honors King George V. The canyons, geologically termed “rias,” that lead from Koolama Bay to the river and waterfalls are stunningly scenic. Multi-hued sandstone cliffs tower above the shorelines which are lined, much of the way, by mangrove thickets dominated by red mangrove trees, but including a variety of other species.
Eastern reef egrets, white-bellied sea eagles, ospreys and pied oystercatchers are among the birds that make a living in and along the river. Our sightings include all of these, including a sea eagle flying to its nest with a branch in its talons, no doubt part of a home improvement project. Pink jellies abound in the waters at the base of the falls.
Zodiacs take us up the ria, poking into countless scenic coves, inlets and fissures in the sandstone. Viewing the falls from our small boats gives an impressive perspective. We are small. Lighting evolves through the day and is augmented by shadows and the smoke from a prescribed burn along the top of the cliff. Hearty hikers boulder hop to the top of the falls and enjoy a well-earned refreshing swim in a pool of cool water. The view from above is amazing. Just below the falls, a well-hidden Zodiac captained by our maître d’ Sam, full of good cheer, hands out greatly appreciated drinks and snacks.
The “Happy Harry Mystery Tour” heads out at the height of the substantial afternoon wind. It is an adventure. As with the best of adventures, we find unexpected delights. Dolphins. Green turtle tracks, nests and remains of eggs on the beach. And then … an egg with a baby still emerging!
Another striking sunset, as we have come to expect in the Kimberley, finds many of us on the aft deck watching and photographing.
