On this most isolated coast, relentlessly lashed by stormy and salty seas, National Geographic Orion glided into view of the rugged, glaciated coastline of South Georgia’s King Haakon Bay. Magnificent polished ice sculptures, sailed the currents to float about the cliffs of green and grey.
One hundred years ago, almost to the day, Ernest Shackleton made his first landfall here after surviving a most miraculous small boat journey – 16 days across the most treacherous stretch of ocean on Earth. In a small cove they guided the James Caird through a narrow entrance & pulled her ashore to rest, repair, replenish and recharge themselves for the epic crossing of the uncharted glacial and mountainous interior of the island. A small cave here was their only shelter from the storm in which they arrived and we too arrived, full of anticipation - of witnessing this historic place.
We lowered Zodiacs and combined coastal cruising with a visit to Shackleton’s cave, stepping ashore to hear the tales from Tom Ritchie and see first-hand the place where these hardy souls rested weary bones. Zodiac cruising offered the delightful sight of squadrons of Wilson’s storm petrels flittering about on the sea surface to stir up some tasty morsels, while soaring over us, wandering albatross - magnificent wings outstretched, relished the invisible power of the wind. Blue-eyed cormorants nested and rested on rocky outcrops above the swell, South Georgia pipits bounced from tussock to tussock, and white chinned petrels swirled above the sea-spray – a symphony of birdlife in King Haakon Bay.
Repositioning during lunch to the head of the bay, we planned for varying hikes ashore to explore the foothills and lookout possibilities surrounding the grand mountainous landscape - glacial tongues pouring out from the icy interior, melt-water streams braided across stony fields in valleys between the moraines. Mature male fur seals resting after an intense testosterone-charged breeding season sat alone and watched us pass.
Some more adventurous souls trekked up high for commanding views over the terrain and gazed over to Shackleton’s Gap – the pass through which the legendary explorer trod on his way to Stromness. A big surprise for us all were the number of elephant seals which reclined in the tussock grass, including a pair of large males that threatened to squash everything in their path - as they juggled their position in the tight squeeze of blubber. A wonderful day in spectacular wilderness, steeped in the core historical magic of the region, was celebrated with cocktails and a social dinner, animated conversation humming deep into the evening.
