Having left the Mekong we spent the night cruising up the Tonle Sap River heading north into Kompong Chhnang province. Our day began bright and early as we tried to avoid the mid-morning heat for a unique Cambodian experience: an oxcart ride through the fields. After a light breakfast of pastries, tea and coffee, we witness another beautiful sunrise from the upper deck. Just as we are preparing to disembark we are informed that our bovine-powered transport is running late. However this is only a minor hiccup as the ability to improvise is one of Cambodia’s strengths, and the oxcarts are redirected to meet us midway along the circuit. Thus we begin the morning with a leisurely stroll.
We walk through the rice fields, most of which are recently harvested, while some are still a bright green. The farmers in this area take advantage of their location along the Tonle Sap River by irrigating the fields during the dry season and producing a second crop. We also make a stop at one of the many shallow lotus ponds which are cultivated for their stem fibres and edible seeds. The thousands of pink flowers in full bloom present an ideal opportunity to capture some memorable photos. When we leave the lotus ponds our oxcarts have arrived and we make our way to the village.
Kompong Tralach is a small village, with around 700 hundred families. Lindblad/National Geographic have sponsored their school for the last few years, funding an English language program and the construction of a library. During our visit to the school we could see that the children are clearly benefitting from the English classes. After reboarding the ship we were treated to another fine buffet breakfast in the galley. Jahan then left dock and headed further north. While in transit, Max gave us some pointers on the capabilities and limitations of smart phone photography, while David talked us through his experience at his recent traditional Khmer wedding.
After lunch we finalised our approach to Kompong Chhnang city, the provincial capital. The city is located on the west side of the river with many stilt houses along the river bank. Kompong Chhnang also features a large, predominantly Vietnamese, floating village along both sides of the busy waterway. We take a short sampan ride to the dock to meet the minivans which take us to the small potting village of Andong Russei. The vast majority of all terracotta (or “earthenware”) pottery made in Cambodia comes from Kompong Chhnang – “chhnang” means cooking pot in Khmer – and it is highly likely that this tradition dates back many centuries.
When we arrive at the village we are able to witness the potters – usually women – at work. They begin with a solid cylinder of clay which they begin by working it into a hollow cylinder and fashioning the mouth. Next they use the “paddle and anvil” technique to mould the pot into a circular shape before finally sealing up the bottom.
After the potting demonstration we meet Mr. Ry, one of the local villagers. We learn that each sugar palm produces a significant amount of juice which can be boiled down into a delicious sugar paste, or fermented into a potent clear alcohol. Ever the showman, Mr. Ry then shows us how he harvests the juice by effortlessly climbing up a thin bamboo pole tied to the side of the sugar palm, which must be around 30 feet high.
When we return to the dock, our sampans take us for a brief tour of the local floating village where most of these villagers make a living as fisherman. They are mostly Vietnamese immigrants whose official legal status is in limbo. When we get back to Jahan we enjoy a few cocktails on deck. After a few rounds we reconvene in the lounge where Adam introduces us to his specialty, the “Dragons of the Mekong,” and Max shares his awesome time-lapse compilation video from the morning oxcart ride. Finally, another great meal brings to an end another day of insight into this fascinating culture.
