Glorious sunshine spilled through windows and portholes as we turned into the wide entrance of a large fjord system, Kongsfjord. In the distance looming over the end of the fjord three similar-shaped peaks stretched to the scattered clouds—Tres Kroners. Much of the area was still blanketed in snow, but the site of our morning activities faced in a southerly direction. Even as the ship anchored we could see that the snow had melted and pale white dots—some large and a couple quite small were spotted. Svalbard reindeer and arctic fox stood out against the brown of the rock slopes and the dirty green of the spring tundra vegetation.
A long hike was the first to depart, landing at a small pebble beach where they could climb a steep slope to reach the bottom of a mountain ridge. The group took spritely to the challenge and made the morning of steadily climbing along the ridge to a high vantage point over the short fjord. The hike was probably 300 meters in elevation change but only about three miles in total distance. For part of the hike a small group of Svalbard reindeer found the humans to be of interest and followed but cautiously approached. When the people stopped the reindeer stopped. When the people walked the reindeer walked.
Down at water level the rest of our guests landed on a rocky beach and were “supervised” by a group of six reindeer and for a short period of time. Two arctic foxes scampered across the landscape. These house-cat-sized canines are always in motion moving around and searching for their next meal. Barnacle and pink-footed geese flushed from various locations as the foxes traveled. Everyone took the route parallel to the shoreline, which also was the nicest walking terrain. At the end of the fjord we were in constant view of a lovely glacier face. For those choosing not to go ashore, there were Zodiac cruises along the shoreline and around a few small artistically shaped icebergs. The day was glorious but it was only the morning.
During lunch we moved to the end of another branch of Krossfjord. Lillihookfjord is the western branch of the larger fjord and ends in a four-mile-wide glacier front, Lillihookbreen. Glacier watching takes patience but even after sitting for about an hour the glacier did not drop any ice so we turned and progressed out of the fjord. Our plan was to go offshore in search of marine mammals but a strong northerly wind made for difficult spotting conditions. However persistence was rewarded with the sighting of two blue whales soon after the final desserts of Captain’s Farewell Dinner were consumed. An amazing finale to a very special expedition to Norway and Svalbard.
