Waffles to order, delectable seasonal fruit and fresh yogurt followed by coffees of every type, and then a deck chair! Such is the order of the day when we spend a morning at sea under sail aboard the Sea Cloud. Complete bliss! The crew hit the rig at 8:30 AM to set every square inch of canvas as we sailed south through the azure waters of the Adriatic towards our destination of the day – the island of Kortcula – the birthplace of the famed explorer, Marco Polo.
The town of Kortcula is a walled Venetian city on a small promontory on the southeastern tip of the island facing the Peljesac Peninsula. The stiff winds that kept the flags atop the city gates aloft provided a welcome breeze for the guests who went ashore for an afternoon walking tour. As we followed our guides through the narrow limestone paved streets, stopping to pet somnolent cats and take photographs of the verdant flower boxes and medieval coats-of-arms above doorways, one almost wanted to pinch oneself to see if this magical setting was real!
Our first stop was the Chapter House of the Fraternity of All Saints with its impressive collection of icons and processional candles. For a maritime historian like myself, the collection of half-models that adorned their church was equally fascinating. After making a short stop in the Bishop’s Palace in the upper square of the town, we moved next door to the small cathedral of St. Mark. The late-medieval façade positively glowed in the late afternoon light. The portal was flanked on either side by primitive lions, the symbol of the saint to whom the church was dedicated. Upon entering the austere limestone edifice, one’s eyes were automatically drawn forward to the jewel-toned Tintoretto masterpiece that adorned the main altar.
Each of us continued to explore the alleyways, shops and galleries of the town for another hour on our own before gathering at the local theater for a performance of the Moreska sword dance. This traditional dance, which pits a local prince against a Moorish noble who has stolen his intended bride, was an exciting, colorful, high-speed pageant of clashing swords and twirling dancers.
We returned to the landing site to see the Sea Cloud glistening in the setting sun. As we stepped aboard we were treated to the most amazing fresh Mediterranean seafood buffet served up on the Lido deck – truly life does not get better than this!
