The Sea Cloud slipped past the entrance of Kotor Fjord and took on the local pilot under the grey light of dawn. Despite the fact that the sun had not yet topped the 3,000 ft. peaks that plunge into the sea surrounding this narrow 17-mile long waterway, the glassy surface of the water reflected their dark shapes with mirror-like precision. The sound of church bells echoed across the water as the little villages along the shore came to life.
We may have been the first ship to port, but sadly we were not going to be the only one, so our buses set out early to get ahead of the crowds. We spent most of the morning in the medieval town of Perast, once home to prosperous mariners and renowned for its merchant marine academy. After a short walk to the quay, we boarded tenders which took us out the middle of the bay to visit the tiny Baroque church of Gospa od Skrpjela (Our Lady of the Rocks) that sits atop a man-made island. Dedicated to seafarers, the walls of the nave are encrusted with small silver votive plaques depicting ships.
Once back in Perast we paid a short visit to the Catholic church of St. Nikolai, with its Venetian-styled bell tower, before taking a short break in one of the many seaside cafes to have a cold drink or sample the local ice cream, café freddos. We then had the Maritime Museum all to ourselves and began boarding our coaches to return to Kotor just as the first of 15 buses for the other ships arrived.
Our morning concluded with a short walking tour of the Venetian walled city of Kotor. The walls of the city are actually 3 km in length and enclose the town and the steep ridges behind. Needless to say, we confined our tour to the lower city, following our guide, single file, through the narrow streets and stopping in the small piazzas to admire the facades of the old palaces of the patrician merchants.
Built in 1066, the cathedral of St. Tryphon, with its pale pink stone interior and magnificent gold and silver alter screen, was a highlight. By noon the temperature had climbed and the crowds had swelled, so despite the wonderful sites in the town, the quiet, shady Lido deck of the Sea Cloud beckoned. Back aboard, Simon, our hotel manager, and his team had prepared a sumptuous seafood feast and Peter Czifra, our pianist, played soft jazz on the piano—the perfect end to a magical morning in Montenegro.
The choices for our afternoon activities were many: finding a deck chair from which to enjoy the breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains; a stroll through Kotor to sample ice cream confections; a harrowing bus ride up 25 serpentine switchbacks to the top of the pass for a panoramic view of the whole fjord and then on to the small alpine village of Njegusi to sample local smoked hams and cheese; or for the true aerobic workout—a climb to Fort St. Michael at the top of the city walls along a steep switchback path with 1104 stairs! Guests partook in all of the above.
Champagne and local oysters were served on the aft Lido deck as the sun dropped below the level of the surrounding peaks and the Sea Cloud cast off and made her way out of the fjord. A perfect end to a perfect day!
