A predawn departure from Isla San Francisco’s Half Moon Bay carried us just north of Los Islotes for a pastel sunrise filled with sharp volcanic silhouettes. After breakfast our snorkelers were delighted with their friendly encounters among juvenile California sea lions; the local residents of these islets and most definitely the stars of the morning, though colorful fishes like blue and gold snappers, Cortez chub, and yellow-tailed surgeonfish were also abundant. This picturesque pile of welded volcanic ash and gas is home to the southernmost breeding colony of California sea lions in the gulf, as well as a nesting and/or roosting spot for blue-footed and brown boobies, turkey vultures, magnificent frigatebirds, yellow- footed gulls, and the occasional raven.
Our cruise down the west side of Islas Partida and Espirtu Santo was a time to enjoy the sun out on deck and learn about our cameras. As we rounded the island’s south side a lone humpback whale blow was spotted by our sharp-eyed guests, and we paused to enjoy some views of this special cetacean.
Bahia Bonanza, a jewel on the southeast corner of Isla Espirtu Santo (the island of the Holy Ghost), was the afternoon destination for walks and a sunset barbeque. This two-mile crescent beach lapped by turquoise waters beckoned us ashore despite some lingering gusty winds. Walks were made up and around the arroyo to admire the huge columnar cacti set among granite boulders; especially the huge cardon, largest of all the cactus species. Some fortunate walkers caught a glimpse of the endemic black jackrabbit bounding up the hill, an icon of this protected island.
Following our sunset feast and beach bonfire, we returned happily to National Geographic Sea Bird, to learn more about humpback whales from Carlos and dream of cetacean encounters yet to come.
