Red clouds graced the early morning sky, and as their color faded, a green flash dazzled those on deck who saw our first sunrise in the Sea of Cortez, where we would spend the next week of our “Remarkable Voyage.” The anchor chain clanged noisily in the lee of Los Islotes, rocky islets of volcanic tuff that offer a safe haul-out site for California sea lions. Soft, low-angle sunlight, ideal for photography, bathed the rugged cliffs and the graceful bodies of these pinnipeds as they relaxed on the rough-hewn rocks. A large male glared at us suspiciously.
Our trusty expedition landing craft circumnavigated the tiny islands, providing close-up views of these animals and also an opportunity to watch frigatebirds and turkey vultures wheeling overhead and an occasional blue-footed booby coming or going from the ledges high above. Sally Lightfoot crabs skittered along near the tide line.
Following our cruises, snorkelers took to the water to see curious sea lions swimming like ballerinas, turning abruptly to change directions and then disappearing in seconds. Although too cold for many corals, some survive here and, along with the rocky sea floor offer numerous hiding places. An intricately marked giant hawkfish studied the clumsy humans that swam nearby. Closer to the surface, schools of sergeant majors glittered in the sunlight, while yellow-tailed surgeonfish and king angels glided past with brightly colored tails.
After a delicious lunch of local tamales, the ship continued north to Isla San Francisco for an afternoon of exploration by water and on foot. With the kayaks and paddleboards everyone could go at their own pace to experience a lovely bay trimmed by a crescent of white sand. Hikers on an ambitious route followed the beach and then zigzagged to a ridge and eventually reached a high point with stunning views. Those on medium hikes strode through an expansive sandy flat where several ponds produce salt for residents of a nearby island. From there, the path climbed to a crest that overlooked the placid ocean and arc-shaped beach below. Cliffs of red volcanic tuff and green rocks provided scenic landscapes for photographers, and plants and shells offered opportunities for close-ups. Snowy plovers, small shorebirds that are in jeopardy in many areas, matched the salty white sand nearly perfectly. If they had not moved, we may have overlooked them. Back on the ship, we had one more natural history treat. Mobulas, small relatives of manta rays, jumped like popping popcorn off the starboard side, a fun finale for our time at Isla San Francisco.
