The southwest winds blew in this morning, setting up an unfamiliar pattern of waves on the Gulf of California. We had spent most of our week finding protection from El Norte; but now had a different scenario to contend with. Southbound, National Geographic Sea Bird was headed to Los Islotes in search of wildlife.
After breakfast was enjoyed in the shelter of larger nearby Isla Partida, morning conditions set up for small boat explorations. Los Islotes is a tiny, steep-faced, volcanic rock of an island covered in bird guano. It is also an important haul-out and rookery spot for California sea lions. The barking could be heard over the roar of the crashing ocean waves. The deep growls of the big males would drown out the mournful cries of pups, probably just months old, looking for mom amongst the plentitude. These powerful animals found no problem in negotiating the big surf around their island home. While we bounced about in our rubber boats, sea lion pups playfully swam all around us, curiously trying to figure out what we were. The water was so clear that we could see them spiraling like living torpedoes under the boat from one side to the other.
Having to leave the energetic sea lions at last, we headed south again in the sheltered waters just off the eastern coast of Espiritu Santo. We sought calm waters and knew that the island’s western shore would be windy and uninviting. Spending our last afternoon ashore on the southeast end of Espiritu Santo was a fitting way to complete our week-long voyage of exploration. The beach at Playa Bonanza extends for two miles in a golden arc of fine sand. Some guests went ashore to bird watch or find more desert plant life, others to walk the beautiful shoreline, some just to relax and enjoy the view; and some took off on a longer hike across the island isthmus to Bahia San Gabriel on the west side about three miles away.
It has been a most excellent experience shared with wonderful shipmates. Steinbeck wrote in his log, “Those quiet men that always stand on piers asked where we were going and when we said ‘to the Gulf of California’ their eyes melted with longing, they wanted to go so bad.”
Now we know exactly what he meant and why. But we have been; and will forever be a part of this magnificent place and it of us.
