The first of February brought with it a number of first time opportunities: whether kayaking amidst an amphitheatre of ice or plunging into frigid polar waters, it was certainly a day to remember. Blue skies and towering ice faces awaited us as we sailed through the Orleans Strait and into Mikkelsen Harbour early this morning and by 8 a.m. the ship was already a bustle of activity as we donned our parkas and life jackets ready to enjoy a morning in this old whaling harbour.
The whaling days of the early 1900's are now over, yet on shore the whale bones and remains of two water boats remind us of this less endearing period of history in the Antarctic. Today, however, a melee of Gentoo penguins and an impressive array of seal species were capturing our attention as we were enchanted by the characterful comings and goings of these creatures.
If observing the penguins and seals from shore wasn’t enough to satiate some of our appetites for adventure then today was our chance to try kayaking in Antarctica. This was a first time opportunity for the majority of us and it was a stunning opportunity at that. Absorbing the majestic surroundings of Mikkelsen Harbour from a kayak was a chance to be enveloped in the quiescence of this unique environment. Paddling away from the National Geographic Explorer we enjoyed Antarctica on a more personal level, visiting fur seals along the coastline and watching penguins porpoising past us at eye level.
In spite of a full morning of activity in Mikkelsen Harbour there were still a few hardy souls on board whose appetite for adventure was yet to be fulfilled. And what better way to fulfill such an appetite than with a plunge in the shockingly frigid waters of the Antarctic?! As the resilient individuals lined up in the Mud Room like a group of penguins daring one another to be the first to jump, this was certainly a scene that had to be seen to be believed. But once one jumps, they all jump! One after another the tough guests aboard the National Geographic Explorer hurled, heaved and simply launched themselves into the -1°C waters. It didn’t take more than a second before they launched themselves straight back out with expressions that quite simply said it all.
If being submerged in ice cold water wasn’t enough, the day certainly had plenty still to deliver. A day on board the National Geographic Explorer is never complete until everything the Antarctic can offer us in 24 hours is made the most of. The afternoon proved just as thrilling as the morning as killer whales interrupted our lunch and we Zodiac cruised amongst numerous leopard seals and icebergs. Rolling into dinner with weary eyes from our fulfilling day we knew our Antarctic experiences were only just getting started.
And true enough just as we were about to dive into our desserts the announcement was made: “Humpback whales bubble feeding at the bow!” What unfolded in front of our very eyes was nothing short of a spectacle. Young, old, near, far, huge, small… the humpbacks were lunging from below, their throat pleats expanding to a ginormous size and flushed red with blood as they engulfed thousands of krill in one gulp. To fathom what we were fortunate enough to witness this evening is difficult – it was so utterly incredible. What the following few days have to offer us will have to be seen to be believed.
